Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim

Well, the bad weather's finally arrived, a great excuse to stay in the warm and knit! I finished this sweater before Christmas and have worn it several times already - I wanted something reasonably warm but not too bulky to wear indoors. I also hate crew necks - they really annoy me - so I came up with this design with a shirt-style collar. The cable trim is enough to stop the design being totally boring to knit, but it was still finished in just over a week. 

Materials: 

500g 100% acrylic DK

(I used Woolcraft New Fashion in Shade 723 Imperial – a bright purple which looks more blue in the photos!))

Pair each 3.25 mm, 3.75 mm and 4 mm needles, plus one 4.5 mm needle for casting off collar

Cable needle

Stitch holder

3 large safety pins or nappy pins

3 x 12 mm buttons

Measurements:

To fit chest/bust 40–42 in (actual measurement 44 in). Length 26 in, sleeve seam 16 in.

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 in over st st

Abbreviations:

K         knit

P         purl

st st    stocking stitch 

patt   pattern

tog     together

st(s)   stitch(es)

inc     increase

dec    decrease

RS      right side

WS     wrong side

rem    remaining 

C4B    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
C4F    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
T4B     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle.
T4F     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle.

First pattern panel:

1^st row: P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3

2^nd row: K3, P4, K4, P4, K3

3^rd row: P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1

4^th row: K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1

5^th row: P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1

6^th row: as 4^th row

7^th row: P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1

8^th row: as 2^nd row

Second pattern panel:

Work as for first pattern panel, reading C4F for C4B and vice versa throughout.

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 133 sts and work 3 inches in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 4 mm needles and work as follows:

1^st row: K26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, K45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, K to end.

2^nd row: P26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, P45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, P to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 16 inches, or desired side seam length, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (85 sts).

Continue until work measures 9.5 inches from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (25.5 in total).

Shape shoulders: Cast off 8 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 39 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Front:

Work as for back to start of armhole shaping.

Shape armholes and divide for neck: Cast off 6, K20, work 18 sts of 1^st patt panel, K19, turn. Working on these sts only, work to end of row.

**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (40 sts).

Work straight until you have completed 12 rows less than back to shoulder dec (11 rows less on other side of front). On next (RS) row, work to last 8 sts, place these 8 sts on a safety pin, turn and dec 1 st at neck edge at start of next row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows and foll alt 3 rows. Work 2 rows straight. Cast off 8 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 8 sts.

Place next 7 sts on needle onto a second safety pin. Rejoin yarn and work to end.

Next row: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row. Work rest of front as for first side from **.

Right sleeve

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 59 sts and work 3 inches in rib as for back, working 1 row less than for back.

Inc row: Rib 6, (inc in next st, rib 3) 13 times, rib 1 (72 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles. Next row: K 27, work 18 sts of 1^st patt panel, K27

Next row: P27, work 18 sts of 1^st patt panel, P27.

Continue in this manner, inc 1 st at each end of the 9^th and every foll 8^th row until there are 96 sts. Work stright until work measures 16 in or desired sleeve length.

Shape top of sleeve: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, then following alt (RS) rows until there are 40 sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of every row until there are 28 sts. Cast off 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 22 sts.

Left sleeve

Work exactly as for right sleeve, but use the second patt panel instead of the first.

Button band

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 9 sts. 1^st row: K1, (P1, K1) to end. 2^nd row: K1, (K1, P1 to last st, K1.

Repeat these 2 rows until the work measures 7.5 inches. Place sts on safety pin.

Buttonhole band

Place 7 sts at centre of front onto 3.25 mm needles with WS facing.

Next row: K2, (P1, K2in) twice, K1 (9 sts)

Next row: K1, (P1, K1) to end.

Rib 16 more rows.

1^st buttonhole row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib 3

2^nd buttonhole row: Rib 3, turn and cast on 3, turn and rib 3.

(Rib 18 rows and work 2 buttonhole rows) twice. Rib 2 rows. Do not break yarn or remove from needle.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles, rib across 9 sts on needle at top of buttonhole band, K across 8 sts from safety pin at right front neck. Pick up and knit 20 sts up shaped edge of right front neck, K across sts from holder at back neck, pick up and K 20 sts down shaped edge of left front neck, K across 8 sts on safety pin at left front, and finally rib across the 9 sts at the top of the button band (113 sts).

Work 9 rows rib using 3.25 mm needles, 10 rows using 3.75 mm needles, and 10 rows with 4 mm needles. Cast off in rib using 4.5 mm needle.

Detail of the neck and collar

Finishing

Join bands to front neck using a flat seam. Catch bottom edge of button band to inside behind buttonhole band.

Attach sleeves to body, join sleeve and side seams.

Neaten buttonholes and attach buttons.

Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions). Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

 

Raspberry Ripple - Vintage-inspired top

Vintage-styled short-sleeved top with mitred neck

I made this for one of my daughters for Christmas. She’s into the fifties look, and has recently won an award for Best Vintage-Inspired Designer in Manchester (see Kally’s blog here), but she doesn’t knit so it’s something I can make that she can’t!

I used the same stitch pattern as for the Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket, but in 4-ply and with only one contrast colour.

Materials:

Back view of top

150g 4-ply yarn in main colour (black) and 100g in contrast (raspberry) – I used some of the Bramwell 100% acrylic coned yarn left over from my machine knitting days, but any yarn that knits to the correct tension will do.

1 pair 3 mm (UK 11) needles

1 pair 3.75 mm (UK 9) needles

Tension:

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 in/10 cm over pattern.

Measurements:

To fit size 42 to 44 in bust – actual measurements bust 40 in (unstretched), length 20 in, sleeve seam 4½ in.

Abbreviations: 

K      knit

P      purl

M1    make 1 st (pick up loop between 2 sts and knit into the back of it)

st st  stocking stitch

g st   garter stitch (every row K) 

patt  pattern

tog    together

st(s)  stitch(es)

inc    increase

dec   decrease

RS     right side

WS    wrong side

MC    main colour

CC    contrast colour

in      inch(es) 

Back:

Using MC and size 3 mm needles, cast on 119 sts. Work 3½ in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.75 mm needles and join in CC – do not cut MC yarn, just carry it up the side of your work, taking care not to pull it too tightly. Work as follows:

Inc row: K2, M1, (K5, M1) 23 times, K2 (143 sts). Work 3 further rows in CC, in st st.

Pattern row (RS): Using MC, K2tog twice, (K1, M1) 4 times, K1, K2tog twice. Repeat to end of row (13 st repeat)

Work 3 rows g st.

Using CC, work pattern row again, then st st 3 rows.

Continue in this manner, working 4 rows MC in g st then 4 rows CC in st st, the first row in each colour being the pattern row, until work measures 13 in.

Decrease for armholes: Keeping continuity of patt, cast off 9 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows (115 sts).**

Dec 1 st at each end of 2^nd and each alt row (RS rows) until 91 sts remain.

Work straight until work measures 6 in from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a fourth contrast row.

Shape neck: Patt 13, turn and patt 13 more rows on these 13 sts, thus ending at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: Cast off 7 sts at start of next row. Patt 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 sts.

Place next 65 sts on stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to rem 13 sts and work 15 rows, thus ending at armhole edge. Shape shoulder as above.

Back neck: Using MC and 3.25 mm needles, with RS facing you, pick up and K 10 sts down right side of neck (right hand side on work), K across 65 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K 10 sts up other side of work (85 sts). K 1 row.

Continue to work neck as follows:

1st row:	K8,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K61,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K8.	(81 sts)
2nd and foll WS rows: K to end
3rd row:	K7,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K59,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K7.	(77 sts)
5th row:	K6,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K57,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K6.	(73 sts)
7th row:	K5,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K55,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K5.	(69 sts)
9th row:	K4,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K53,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K4.	(65 sts)
11th row:	K3,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K51,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K3.	(61 sts)
13th row:	K2,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K49,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K2.	(57 sts)
15th row:	K1,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K47,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K1.	(53 sts)
17th row:		K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K45,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,		(49 sts)
18th row: (WS) K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. Cast off remaining 47 sts fairly loosely.

Front:

Work as for back to **.

Dec 1 st at each end of 2^nd and each alt row (RS rows) until 111 sts remain, ending with a WS row.

Divide for front neck: K2 tog, patt 21, turn leaving remaining 88 sts on needle. Working on these 22 sts, continue in patt, continuing to dec 1 st at armhole edge on each RS row until 13 sts remain. Continue straight until front is same length as back to shoulder cast off, cast off as for front.

Place next 65 sts on a stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to remaining 23 sts. Patt to last 2 sts, K2 tog.

Continue in patt as for other side of front neck, reversing all shapings.

Front neck: Using MC and 3.25 mm needles, with RS facing you, pick up and K 38 sts down left side of neck (right hand side on work), K across 65 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K 38 sts up other side of work (141 sts). K 1 row.

Continue to work neck as follows:

1st row:	K36,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K61,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K36.	(137 sts)
2nd and foll WS rows: K to end
3rd row:	K35,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K59,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K35.	(133 sts)
5th row:	K34,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K57,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K34.	(129 sts)
7th row:	K33,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K55,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K33.	(125 sts)
9th row:	K32,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K53,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K32.	(121 sts)
11th row:	K31,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K51,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K31.	(117 sts)
13th row:	K30,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K49,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K30.	(113 sts)
15th row:	K29,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K47,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K29.	(109 sts)
17th row:	K28,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K45,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K28.	(105 sts)
18th row: K to end.

Cast off fairly loosely, working double decreases at mitred corners in line with those already worked.

Sleeve (make 2):

Using MC and size 3 mm needles, cast on 87 sts. Work 1½ in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.75 mm needles and join in CC.

Inc row: K4, M1, (K5, M1) 16 times, K3 (104 sts). Work 3 further rows in CC, in st st.

Continue in patt as for back until work measures 4½ in from start.

Decrease for armholes: Keeping continuity of patt, cast off 9 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row (RS) and following alt rows until 64 sts remain.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following 4^th rows (RS) until 50 sts remain, then every alt row until 34 sts remain, ending with a RS row.

Next row: (P2 tog) 17 times. Cast off remaining 17 sts.

To make up:

Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions).

Set in sleeves, then join sleeve and side seams. Sew ends into seams. Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

Outfits for 16 inch baby doll - part 3

Well, here we are at the start of yet another new year - where does all the time go? Now that Christmas is over I can post the patterns from my knitted presents - didn't want to give too much away beforehand!
First, the rest of the doll's clothes patterns, started in November. Pattern for a vintage look sweater to follow. 

 
Dress, jacket and bonnet

Materials:

4-ply yarn in white (W) and red (R)

Pair size 3.25 mm (UK 10) needles

Pair size 3 mm (UK 11) needles

2 small buttons

Shirring elastic (to match leggings)

Pair 3.5 mm (UK 10) knitting needles

3 mm crochet hook

Tension:

7 sts to 1 inch over st st

Measurements:

To fit a 15 to 16 in baby doll: chest 11.5 in, waist 12 in, sleeve seam 3 in, head circumference 12 in.

Abbreviations: see vest pattern

Dress

With 3.25 mm needles and W, cast on 120 sts. K 3 rows.

Change to R and work 4 rows in st st, then 2 rows g st in W. Do not break off yarn, but carry up the side of the work.

Continue working 4 rows st st in R, then 2 rows g st in W, until work measures 3.5 in. Cast on 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Continue to work in patt, working 4 sts in g st at each end of every row until work measures 5 in, ending with a R stripe.

Next row: Using W, K4, (K2 tog, K1) to last 6 sts, K2 tog, K4 (85 sts).

Work 3 more rows in g st using W, making buttonhole 3 sts from end of 3^rd row. To make buttonhole, work y fwd, K2 tog.

Change to R, break off W and work 2 rows st st.

Divide for armholes: K 21, cast off 4, K 35, cast of 4, K 21.

Next row: K 4, P 15, K2 tog, turn. Working on these 20 sts only, dec 1 st at start of next and following alt rows until 18 sts remain. Work 16 rows straight in st st, maintaining g st border and working another buttonhole on 7^th of these rows.

Cast off 6 sts at start of next 2 alt rows (shoulder edge), P 1 row, cast off rem 6 sts.

Rejoin yarn to next st on needle, P2 tog, P 31, P2 tog, turn and work on these 33 sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and alt rows until 27 sts remain. Work 7 rows straight in st st.

Divide for neck: K 12, cast off 3, K 12. Working on last 12 sts, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 alt rows (9 sts). Work 3 rows straight. Cast off 4 sts at start of next row, work 1 row, cast off rem 5 sts.

Rejoin yarn and work other side of front neck on next 12 sts to match.

Rejoin yarn to rem 21 sts and work left back to match right back above.

With W, pick up 42 sts around armhole, work 4 rows in g st and cast off. Repeat for other armhole.

Neck finishing and ties: Join shoulder seams. With 3 mm crocket hook and W, work 5 in chain, work 1 row double crochet around neck edge, then 5 in chain.

Join back seam, overlapping extensions. Neaten buttonholes and attach buttons to correspond.

Bonnet

Using 3.5 mm needles and W, cast on 70 sts. Work 3 rows g st in W, then work 34 rows in patt as for dress

Cast off. Join back seam.

With 3 mm crochet hook and W, work 6 in chain. Work 1 row double crochet around neck edge, then another 6 in chain. Darn in ends.

Leggings

The pattern for these was taken from Claire’s leggings pattern (Claire at www.babydollhandknitdesigns.co.uk - her patterns are in various sizes and suitable for premature babies too).

Outfits for 16 inch baby doll - part 2

Cardigan, trousers and hat

Materials:

4-ply yarn in white and kingfisher

Pair size 3.25 mm (UK 10) needles

Pair size 3 mm (UK 11) needles

4 buttons

Shirring elastic (to match trousers)

Tension:

7 sts to 1 inch over st st

Measurements:

To fit a 15 to 16 in baby doll: chest 11.5 in, waist 12 in, sleeve seam 3 in, leg seam 4 in, head circumference 12 in.

Trousers

(make 2 pieces)

Using kingfisher and 3.25 mm needles, cast on 40 sts. K 3 rows.

Change to st st, inc 1 st at each end of next and foll 6^th rows until there are 50 sts. Work straight until piece measures 4 in (another 7 rows) or inside leg length required.

Cast off 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 rows (40 sts).

Work straight until piece measures 6½ in (another 19 rows) or length from ankle to waist.

Change to 3 mm needles and work 6 rows k1, P1 rib. Cast of loosely in rib.

Join front and back body seams. Join inside leg seams. Thread 3 double lengths of shirring elastic through the back of the ribbing and tie off to secure.

Cardigan

Back

Using white and 3.25 mm needles, cast on 43 sts. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Join in Kingfisher and work 2 rows st st (do not cut white yarn, but carry yarn not in use up the side of the work, taking care not to pull it too tight.)

Work 2 rows st st in white. Continuing the stripe pattern,. Work until piece measures 3 in (22 rows st st).

Cast off 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows until 17 sts remain. Leave these sts on a stitch holder.

Left front

Using white and 3.25 mm needles, cast on 19 sts. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Work 22 rows in st st stripe patt as for back.

Cast off 2 sts at start of next row. P 1 row.

Dec 1 st at start of next and following alt rows until 10 sts remain.

Continuing to dec on alt rows at armhole edge, cast off 2 sts at neck edge at start of next row, then dec 1 st at neck edge on next and every alt row until 2 sts remain. K2 tog and fasten off.

Right front

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (make 2)

Using white and 3.25 mm needles, cast on 33 sts. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Continue in stripe patt as for back, work 22 rows straight.

Cast off 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows until 7 sts remain. Leave these sts on a stitch holder.

Neckband

With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles and white yarn, pick up and knit 7 sts up right side of neck, K across 7 sts at top of first sleeve, then 17 sts from back and 7 sts from top of second sleeve, and finally pick up and K 7 sts down left side of neck (45 sts). 

Work 3 rows K1, P1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Button band

With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles and white yarn, pick up and knit 33 sts along left front edge.

Work 5 rows K1, P1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Buttonhole band

With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles and white yarn, pick up and knit 33 sts along right front edge.

Work 2 rows K1, P1 rib.

Buttonhole row: Rib 2, (yfwd, K2tog, rib 7) 3 times, yfwd, K2tog, rib 2.

Work 2 rows K1, P1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

To make up

Join raglan seams. Join side and sleeve seams. Darn all ends into seams. Neaten buttonholes and attach 4 buttons to correspond.

Hat

Using white and 3 mm needles, cast on 80 sts. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.25 mm needles and work 12 rows in stripe patt as for cardigan.

Next row: (K8, K2tog) to end

Next row: P

Next row: (K7, K2tog) to end

Next row: P

Continue to dec in this manner until there are 16 sts.

Next row: (K2tog) to end.

Cut yarn leaving a long tail, thread through remaining 8 sts and pull up. Sew to secure gathering, then join seam.

Outfits for 16 inch baby doll

It seems my granddaughter is being given a restored vintage doll’s pram, bed and wardrobe for Christmas, so I thought I’d better get her a doll to go with them! I wanted a doll that was just a doll – I think today’s toys do far too much and don’t leave any room for a child’s imagination. I managed to find a plain vinyl baby doll in the local B & M store, but as it came as part of a bath time set it has no clothes (apart from a nappy). Next task – knit clothes for her! As usual I couldn’t find a suitable pattern, except for the leggings (from Claire at www.babydollhandknitdesigns.co.uk - her patterns are in various sizes and suitable for premature babies too).

 

These clothes are knitted in 4-ply 100% acrylic – mostly ends of Bramwell cones that I’ve had lying around for over 20 years. Any 4-ply yarn that knits to the correct tension will do; it’s a good way of using up those odd half balls that always seem to be left over.

Vest

(worked in garter stitch throughout)

Materials:

4-ply yarn in white

Pair size 3.25 mm (UK 10) needles

4 buttons

Tension:

7 sts to 1 inch over g st

Front:

With white and 3.25 mm needles, cast on 12 sts. K 3 rows.

*Next row: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1

Next row: K

Repeat these 2 rows until there are 36 sts.*

Cast on 3 sts at start of next 2 rows (42 sts). Work 36 rows g st.

Cast off 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 rows (32 sts).

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows 3 times (26 sts).

K 6 rows.

Divide for neck: Next row: K9, cast off 8, K9.

**Working on these last 9 sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge on next 2 rows. K 4 rows.

Buttonhole row: Next row: K4, y fwd, K2tog, K3. K 3 rows.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 rows (3 sts). S1, K2tog, psso and fasten off.

Rejoin yarn to remaining 9 sts on needle and work as for right shoulder from **.

Back:

Cast on 6 sts. Inc 1 st at each end of next 3 rows (12 sts). K 2 rows.

Buttonhole row: K3, yfwd, K2tog, K 3, yfwd, K2tog, K2

K 21 rows on these 12 sts.

Cont as for front from * to *.

Cont to inc at each end of alt rows until there are 42 sts.

Work 36 rows g st.

Cast off 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 rows (32 sts).

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows 3 times (26 sts).

K 16 rows.

Divide for neck: Next row: K9, cast off 8, K9.

***Working on these last 9 sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge on next 2 rows. K 8 rows.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 rows (3 sts). S1, K2tog, psso and fasten off.

Rejoin yarn to remaining 9 sts on needle and work as for left shoulder from ***.

Do not press. Join side seams. Finish buttonholes. Attach two buttons to bottom of front, and two to tabs on back.

Socks

The pattern for these was taken from Claire’s leggings pattern (see above)– work as far as the end of the foot decreases, then work 4 rows rib and cast off loosely.

Sew up seams.

Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket

I've finally managed to design and knit something for myself - I haven't seen this stitch pattern anywhere else so I guess I must have invented it! I wanted a comfy hooded jacket for winter days at my husband's freezing cold shop, and used twelve colours plus black to make it. You could try using a single contrast colour, or two, three or four - it's a great way of using up odd balls of yarn from your stash. You might want to use more subtle contrast colours, especially if you make it for a man, but I love bright colours so I'm going to wear them all!

Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket - front (see below for back view)

Instructions

Materials:

Woolcraft New Fashion or Hayfield Budget DK (100% acrylic):

4 x 100g balls black (MC)

30g of each of 12 contrast colours

Note: If you choose to use only one contrast colour, you will need 4 x 100g balls; 6 contrast colours will require 60g of each and so on.

26 in open ended zip to match MC.

Pair 4 mm long knitting needles (at least 14 in/35 cm)

Pair 3.5 mm long knitting needles

Tension:

23 sts and 32 rows to 10 cm/4 in over pattern

Size:

To fit 40-42 in bust/chest – actual measurement 45 in

Length 27.5 in

Sleeve seam 17 in

Abbreviations:

K      knit

P      purl

M1    make 1 st by picking up loop between 2 sts and knitting into the back of it

st st        stocking stitch

g st        garter stitch (every row K)

patt        pattern

tog        together

st(s)        stitch(es)

inc        increase

dec        decrease

RS     right side

WS        wrong side

MC    main colour

in        inch(es)

Back:

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 130 sts and knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and join in first contrast – do not cut MC yarn, just carry it up the side of your work, taking care not to pull it too tightly. Work as follows:

Pattern row (RS): K2tog twice, (K1, M1) 4 times, K1, K2tog twice. Repeat to end of row (13 st repeat)

Work 3 rows st st, starting with a purl row.

Using MC, work pattern row again, then knit 3 rows.

Continue in this manner, working 4 rows contrast in st st, then 4 rows MC in g st, the first row in each colour being the pattern row, until work measures 17 in.

Decrease for raglan:

Note: take care to keep continuity of pattern: use markers to indicate end of pattern repeat as needed)

Cast off 1 st at start of next 2 rows, work 2 rows straight.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alternate (RS) rows until 40 sts remain. Cast off.

Pocket linings: (make 2)

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 27 sts and work in st st for 5½ in. Leave sts on a spare needle.

Left front:

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 65 sts. Knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back until work measures 7 in, ending with 4^th pattern (contrast) row.

Insert pocket lining and form pocket opening:

Next row (RS): With MC, pattern 19 sts, place next 27 sts on a stitch holder, patt 27 sts from spare needle, patt remaining 19 sts (65 sts).

Continue in patt until front measures same as back to start of raglan decrease.

Decrease for raglan: (see note above)

Cast off 1 st at start of next row, work 3 rows straight.

Dec 1 st at start of next and alt (RS) rows until 29 sts remain, ending with a RS row.

Shape neck: Cast off 5 sts at start of next row. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 rows, at the same time continuing to dec on alt RS rows at armhole edge, until 4 sts remain.

Next row: K2 tog twice

Next row: p2

Next row: K2tog and fasten off.

Right front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.

Pocket tops: (2 alike)

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, place 27 sts from stitch holder on needle with RS facing and k 4 rows. Cast off.

Sleeve: (make 2)

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, cast on 65 sts and knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back, increasing 1 st at each end of next (RS) row and every following 8^th row until there are 91 sts. Take care to incorporate new stitches into pattern (see note above).

Work straight until work measures the same as the back to armhole shaping.

Note: if you need to adjust the length of the sleeves or the body, you must ensure that the pattern still matches up when you come to work the raglan shaping. For example, if you reduce the sleeve length by one pattern, start the sleeve pattern with the second contrast.

Decrease for raglan:  

Cast off 1 st at start of next 2 rows.

Work 2 rows straight, then dec 1 st at each end of the next row. Work 1 row straight.

Repeat last 4 rows twice more (83 sts).

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alternate (RS) rows until 7 sts remain. Cast off.

Hood:

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, cast on 169 sts. Knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back until work measures 2½ in, ending with WS row.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows until there are 143 sts.

Work straight until work measures 10½ in. Cast off.

Front borders:

For each side, using 3.5 mm needles and MC, pick up and knit 156 sts evenly along front edge. Knit 2 rows. Cast off loosely (use a size larger needle if necessary).

Making up:

Press pieces according to instructions on ball band (do not press 100% acrylic yarn).

Sew edges of pocket tops to front, and edges of pocket linings to inside of fronts.

Join raglan seams, matching coloured stripes carefully. Join side and sleeve seams. Insert zip. Attach hood to neck, easing in any fullness.

Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

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