Maisie

I may have mentioned our three dogs, Jodie, Jake and Harley. Unfortunately Jodie, the eldest at about 15 (we never knew her age for sure) passed away at the beginning of October. She was the Daddy's girl of the three, going with my husband to his shops every day for the past 12 years, so since neither of the other two are temperamentally suited to dealing with customers, and since we had a gap to fill, we set about searching for a new dog. We eventually found Maisie, a lovely little lurcher girl about 5 years old, at Bleakholt Animal Sanctuary, where Jake came from 12 years ago. Here she is, lounging on the sofa with her new Dad.

Being basically a small greyhound she feels the cold rather more than the others (they are both collie crosses, Jake with a springer and Harley with a labrador), so I've been knitting for her. I struggled to find dog coat patterns in DK, rather than aran/worsted weight - most free patterns online are from the US, and worsted seems to be the preferred weight there, whereas I like something a little lighter for most projects.

I came up with this fairly simple design, using a mock rib stitch which gives some stretch without being clingy, is quick to knit, and permits clean colour changes for stripes. I've also made a couple in the larger size for the "Old Woofs" at Bleakholt - they have a number of older dogs (and other animals) who will probably never be rehomed because of their age, but who will live out their remaining years at the sanctuary.

If you want to use this pattern to knit coats for your own or friends' dogs, or for your local dogs' home, feel free - but please don't use it to make coats to sell for personal profit.

You can download a pdf file from my Ravelry page here.

Maisie dog coat free pattern

Materials

200g ball Jarol New Arrival DK

Pair UK8/4 mm needles

Pair UK9/3.75 mm needles

3.75 mm circular needle or set of long dpns (for edging)

3.75 mm dpns for leg edging

Measurements

To fit 24” to 26” (27” to 29”) chest, back length 23” (25”) excluding neck ribbing (adjustable).

Tension

21 sts and 28 rows to 4”/10 cm over mock rib stitch

Abbreviations

K	knit	inc	increase by working into front and back of same st
P	purl
st(s)	stitch(es)	dec	decrease by working 2 sts tog
rem	remaining	alt	alternate
foll	following	patt	pattern
dpns	double pointed needles	RS	right side
tog	together	WS	wrong side

Instructions

Using smaller straight needles, cast on 96 (104) sts and work in double rib as follows:

1st rib row: K1, (P2, K2) to last 3 sts. P2, K1.

2nd rib row: K3, (P2, K2) to last st, K1.

Work 2” rib (or desired neck rib length – more for a greyhound or similar long-necked dog), inc 1 st at each end of last row - 98 (106) sts.

Change to larger needles and work mock rib as follows:

Next row: K to end.

Next row: (K2, P6) to last 2 sts, K2.

Cont in patt, inc 1 st at each end of next and each alt (RS) row until there are 130 (146) sts, ensuring continuity of patt and bringing extra sts into patt as you work them.

Work 1 (WS) row.

Divide for leg openings: K18 (21), cast off 6, K82 (92), cast off 6, K18 (21).

Working on last 18 (21) sts only and continuing in patt, patt 1 row.

Dec 1 st at start of next (RS) and foll 2 alt rows - 15 (18) sts. Work 15(19) rows straight. Inc 1 st at start of next (RS) and foll 2 alt rows - 18 (21) sts. Work 1 row, thus ending with a WS row. Cut yarn.

Rejoin yarn to centre group of 82 (92) sts and work 1 row. Dec 1 st at each end of next (RS) and 2 foll alt rows - 76 (86) sts. Work 1 row straight. Inc 1 st at each end of next (RS) and foll 2 alt rows – 82 (92) sts. Work 1 row. Cut yarn.

Rejoin yarn to last group of 18 (21) sts and work 1 row. Dec 1 st at end of next (RS) and foll 2 alt rows - 15 (18) sts. Work 15 (19)rows straight. Inc 1 st at end of next (RS) and foll 2 alt rows - 18 (21) sts. Work 1 row.

Joining row: K 18 (21), turn and cast on 6 sts, turn, K82 (92), turn, cast on 6 sts, turn, K18 (21) - 130 (146) sts.

Work straight until work measures 11” (12”) from end of neck ribbing.

Shape back: Next 2 rows: Work 15 (18) sts, place these sts on a large safety pin, work to end - 100 (110) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of next row (RS) and each alt row until there are 80 (88) sts left.

Work straight until work measures 20” (22”) from end of neck ribbing (or 3” less than desired finished length).

Dec 1 st at each end of next and foll alt (RS) 4 rows - 70 (78) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and foll 4 rows - 60 (68) sts. Leave sts on needle for edging.

Edging: With RS facing and using circular needle (or long dpns), place 15 (18) sts from 1st safety pin onto left hand needle and work across them as follows:

Smaller size: (K3, K2 tog) 3 times (12 sts).

Larger size: (K4, K2 tog) 3 times (15 sts).

Both sizes: Pick up and K 66 (77) sts along edge, K across 60 (68) sts from needle, pick up and K 66 (77) sts along other edge, and lastly place sts from 2nd safety pin onto left hand needle and work across them as follows:

Smaller size: (K2 tog, K3) 3 times (reducing from 15 to 12 sts)

Larger size: (K2 tog, K4) 3 times (reducing from 18 to 15 sts)

On these 216 (252) sts work 7 rows double rib as for neck. Cast off loosely – use a larger needle.

Leg edging: Using dpns, pick up and K 54 (64) sts around opening. Join into round and work 1” to 2½” double rib as desired. Cast off loosely using larger needle.

If you prefer, you can work 1 row of double crochet (US: single crochet) around each leg opening, using a 4 mm crochet hook (the coat at the top of the pattern is worked like this).

Making up: Press work lightly on WS under a dry cloth, avoiding neck and leg ribbing, to ensure that edging lies flat.

Stitch centre front seam from start of neck ribbing to end of edging ribbing. Weave in and secure any remaining ends. Press seam lightly under a dry cloth.

Detail of mock rib stitch pattern

Variations

Use a contrasting colour for the neck and edge ribbing – you will need about 50 g.

Use up odd part balls of yarn in a striped version – this one used about 70 g of each of three colours.

Coat with contrast edging

Striped coat

Classic 60s polo neck sweater

Steve Winwood in the original sweater

As usual I've been too busy knitting to write up my patterns - I really must make more effort! This sweater was made for a friend who's very much into the 60s Mod look, even though he's about 25 years too young to remember it! He'd asked me if I could make him a sweater like one he'd seen Steve Winwood wearing in a photo taken in about 1965, when Steve was with the Spencer Davis Group. (Who else remembers them? Come on, own up!). 
I've made a couple of minor changes - it looks as though the original was in Aran/worsted weight, which was a little heavy for Paul if he wanted to wear it on stage (he's the guitarist in a 60s tribute band, The Beat Rooms), so I used Jarol Heritage DK, which has a high wool content and is therefore more authentic than synthetic fibres. I also changed the shoulder line slightly as the dropped shoulder of the original would be uncomfortable under a jacket. Here's the pattern - it's very simple, with a cable repeat every 14 rows on both front and back.

Please note error in sleeve pattern now corrected 6 March 2014

Classic 1960s polo neck sweater

 

My version of Steve's sweater

Materials:

700g Jarol Heritage DK – I used shade 100 Cream.

Pair size UK 10/3.25 mm needles

Pair size UK 8/4 mm needles

Set of size UK 9/3.75 mm double point needles for polo collar

Cable needle

2 stitch holders or spare needles

Measurements:

To fit chest 40” to 42” (actual measurement 44”)

Length 28”

Sleeve seam 19” plus turnback cuff

Back width across shoulders (between sleeve set-in seams) 16”

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4” measured over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles.

Abbreviations:

K	knit	K2in	Inc 1 st by knitting into back and front of same st
P	purl
st st	stocking stitch	rem	remaining
patt	pattern	RS	right side
tog	together	WS	wrong side
st(s)	stitch(es)	C8F	slip next 4 sts onto cable needle, place at front of work, K next 4 sts, then K 4 sts from cable needle
inc	increase
dec	decrease
alt	alternate

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 119 sts and work 3” (22 rows) rib as follows:

1st rib row: (K1, P1) to last st, K1.

2nd rib row: K1, (K1, P1) to last 2 sts, K2.

Inc row: Rib 4, (K2in, rib 11) 9 times. K2in, rib 6 (129 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles and work 14 row cable pattern as follows:

Marker added on cable row

1st, 3rd and 5th (RS) rows: (K35, P2, K8, P2) twice, K35

2nd and alt (WS) rows: (P35, K2, P8, P2) twice, P35

7th row: (K35, P2, C8F, P2) twice, K35 – place a marker on this row (a length of contrasting yarn will be fine).

9th, 11th and 13th rows – as 1st.

Repeat these 14 rows until work measures 18” or desired length to start of armhole decreasing. Move the marker to each new cable patt row as you work it.

Armhole shaping: Keeping continuity of cable pattern, cast off 4 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, then each alt 6 (RS) rows (95 sts rem).

Work straight until work measures 9½” from start of armhole decreasing, i.e. 27½” in total.

Shoulder shaping: Cast off 9 sts at start of next 4 rows, then 10 at start of nest 2 rows. Place rem 39 sts on stitch holder for neck.

Front:

Work as for back to end of armhole shaping. Work straight until work is 18 rows shorter than the back to start of shoulder shaping, thus ending with a WS row.

Divide for neck: Work 35 sts, turn, P2 tog and work to end. Working on these 34 sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows, then on next 3 alt (RS) rows (28 sts).

Work 7 rows straight. With RS facing, cast off 9 sts at start of next and foll alt rows. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 10 sts.

Place centre 25 sts on stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to rem sts and complete other side of neck to match.

Sleeves (make 2 alike):

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 59 sts and work 5” (40 rows) rib as for back. If you prefer to omit the turnback, work 3” (22 rows).

Inc row: Rib 5, (K2 in, rib 7) 6 times, K2 in, rib 5 (66 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles and. working in st st throughout, inc 1 st (K2 in) at each end of 7th row and each following 8th row until there are 92 sts.

Work straight until work measures 21” (or 19” if you are omitting the turnback).

Shape top: cast off 4 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next and foll alt (RS) rows until there are 40 sts left. Dec each end of every row until 28 sts are left.

Cast off 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 22 sts.

Back of sweater also has cable pattern

Polo collar:

Join shoulder seams.

Using 3.75 mm dpns or circular needle, and starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 22 sts down left front neck, K across 25 sts from centre front, pick up and K 22 sts up right front neck, and finally K across 39 sts from back neck (108 sts). Work 6½” K1, P1 rib. Cast off loosely – use a needle 1 or 2 sizes larger.

Finishing:

Press pieces according to ball band instrucions. Set in sleeves, then join side and sleeve seams. Don't forget to stitch the lower 3” of the sleeve ribbing from the other side, as the cuffs will be turned back in wear. Press seams.

Variation on a theme - another version of the Celtic Cable sweater vest

No pattern this time as such, I just wanted to post about the new version of the Celtic Cable Sweater Vest I've recently finished. I was pleased to see lots of interest in this patttern, especially the hat - I'm in the process of making/designing more hats and other accessories, which I'm intending to put on Ravelry later.
This time I used a dark grey marl DK yarn, again unbranded, but possibly Jarol Heritage, a colour I can wear with my red, green and purple tops. I substituted an extended Saxon Braid panel, flanked with double rope cables, with the number of stitches adding up to 54 as in the pattern. Although I had visualised the braid, I found that someone had already worked out the stitch pattern, so I can't really claim it as my own - see The Barrington Braid here.

I made the collar the same as before, with hidden buttons and buttonholes at the front edge of the collar so it can be fastened right up.

Detail of the cable pattern is shown on the right.

Happy cabling!

Celtic braid sweater vest and hat

I designed this sleeveless sweater for myself as I had a “bargain bag” of yarn that I knew wouldn’t stretch to a sweater with sleeves, and I’m so pleased with it – I incorporated pockets (to keep my hands warm) and a collar that can be buttoned right up (I hate wearing scarves). The cable pattern looks more complicated than it is – there are only two types of cable, the Celtic pattern I used in the Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim, and a simple rope cable, doubled in the centre of the pattern.

I’m not sure what the yarn is, it could be Jarol Heritage, which is a wool-rich mix. The colour is a beautiful deep red, which for some reason is really hard to photograph accurately with my camera, you’ll just have to take my word for it! I had enough yarn left to make a matching hat – the patterns for both are here.

Materials:

Jarol Heritage DK (55% wool/25% acrylic/20% nylon): 350g for sweater vest, 80g for hat

7 x ½” (12 mm) buttons for sweater vest

Pair UK8/4 mm needles plus one spare.

Pair UK9/3.75 mm needles

Pair UK10/3.25 mm needles

Cable needle

Stitch holders/safety pins

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4”/10 cm over stocking stitch

Measurements:

Sweater vest to fit 40” to 42” (101-106 cm) bust/chest – actual measurement 44” (112 cm), length 26” (66 cm).

Hat to fit head 23”-24” (58-61 cm) circumference – can be adjusted

Abbreviations:

K	knit	C4B	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle
P	purl
st st	stocking stitch
patt	pattern	C4F	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle
tog	together
st(s)	stich(es)
inc	increase	T4B	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle
dec	decrease
RS	right side
WS	wrong side	T4F	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle
in	inch(es)
rem	remaining
yrnc	yarn round needle clockwise

Pattern panel (54 sts)

Row	Rope A	Celtic braid A	Double rope	Celtic braid B	Rope B
1	P1, K4	P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3	K8	P3, C4F, P4, C4F, P3	K4, P1
2	K1, P4	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P8	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P4, K1
3	P1, C4F	P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1	C4B, C4F	P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1	C4B, P1
4	K1, P4	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P8	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P4, K1
5	P1, K4	P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1	K8	P1, K2, P4, C4B, P4, K2, P1	K4, P1
6	K1, P4	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P8	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P4, K1
7	P1, C4F	P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1	C4B, C4F	P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1	C4B, P1
8	K1, P4	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P8	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P4, K1

Detail of cable pattern

Sweater vest instructions

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 128 sts and work in double rib as follows for 3” (7.5 cm)

1st rib row: K1, (P2, K2) to last 3 sts, P2, K1

2nd rib row: K3, (P2, K2) to last 5 sts, P2, K3

Inc row: Rib 8, (inc in next st, rib 15) 7 times, inc in next st, rib 7 (136 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles and continue as follows, working the pattern panel from the 1st row:

Next row: K41, work 54 sts of patt panel, K41.

Next row: P41, work 54 sts of patt panel, P41.

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 16.5” (42 cm) or desired length to armhole shaping.

Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (90 sts).

Continue until work measures 9.5” (24 cm) from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (26”/66 cm total).

Shape shoulders: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 54 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Pocket linings (make 2):

With 4 mm needles, cast on 25 sts and work 16 rows in st st. Leave sts on stitch holder.

Front:

Cast on and work ribbing (including inc row) as for Back. Change to 4 mm needles and work 16 rows as for back.

Divide for pockets: K16, K25 from top of pocket lining, turn and, using spare 4 mm needle, st st 39 rows on these 41 sts, thus ending with a RS row. Cast off 25 sts and P to end. Leave rem 16 sts on stitch holder.

Rejoin yarn to sts on main needle and work 104 sts keeping continuity of patt, turn, placing last 16 sts on a stitch holder, and, using spare needle, work 40 rows in patt on these 104 sts. Leave these sts on needle.

Place 16 sts from stitch holder then 25 sts of second pocket lining on left hand needle, rejoin yarn and work 40 rows in st st. Cast off 25 sts.

Keeping the 16 sts on the left hand needle, replace the 104 sts from the main part and the 16 sts from the right hand part back onto this needle (136 sts). Continue in patt as for back until front matches back to armhole shaping.

Armhole shaping and divide for neck: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row, work 58 sts, cast off next 8 sts and work to end.

Cast off 6 sts at start of next row, work to centre cast off, turn and work on these 58 sts.

**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (41 sts). At the same time keep neck edge straight and keep continuity of patt.

Work straight until you have completed 15 rows less than back to shoulder dec (14 rows less on other side of front).

Next row: Work to last 13 sts, place these sts on a large safety pin, turn and work on rem 28 sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 7 rows, then each alt (RS) row 3 times (18 sts).

Shoulder shaping: Cast off 6 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 6 sts.

Rejoin yarn to rem 58 sts and work 1 WS row. Work from ** to complete other side of front, reversing all shapings.

Pocket edgings (both alike):

Sew pocket linings to inside of front. With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 40 sts along outside edge of pocket opening and work 9 rows rib as for back. Cast off using a size larger needle.

Button band:

With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 52 sts down left side of front opening (right side for a man) and complete as for pocket edgings.

Buttonhole band:

As for button band, but working two buttonhole rows on 5th and 6th rows as follows:

1st buttonhole row (WS): Rib 3, (yarn to back, yrnc, K2 tog, rib 10) 4 times, K1.

2nd buttonhole row (RS): rib as normal, working into the back of the loops made by the yrnc on the previous row.

Note: This method will give you neat holes which are almost invisible in wear, and you should not need to neaten the edges as with other methods. The buttonholes will be big enough for small buttons

Lap buttonhole band over button band at the bottom and stitch to cast off stitches at centre front.

Collar:

With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 10 sts from top of buttonhole band (button band for a man). Work across 13 sts from safety pin, reducing to 10 sts as follows: K1, (K2 tog, K2) 3 times. Then pick up 20 sts along front left neck. Work across 54 sts from back neck, reducing to 40 as follows: (K2 tog, K2) 13 times, K2 tog. Pick up 20 sts along right front neck edge, work across 13 sts from safety pin, reducing to 10 as follows: (K2, K2 tog) 3 times, K1. Pick up 10 sts from top of other band. (120 sts).

Work 16 rows rib as for back, starting with 2nd row, then change to 3.75 mm needles and work another 21 rows. At the same time, make a buttonhole at the start of the 10th, 22nd and 34th rows as follows: K1, P2, yrnc, K2 tog, rib to end. Remember to work into the back of the buttonhole stitch on the return rows.

Cast off ribwise using a size larger needle.

Armbands (both alike):

Join shoulder seams. With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 140 sts evenly along armhole edge and complete as for pocket edgings.

Join side seams and darn in ends. Press stocking stitch parts only according to ball band instructions. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Below are photos of the various ways of wearing the collar.

Hat instructions

With 4 mm needles cast on 32 sts Work foundation row as follows:

(K3, P4) twice, K4, (P4, K3) twice.

Continue in pattern, using the pattern panel chart but omitting the double rope and Celtic cable B columns and adding 2 K sts at the start of each row as follows:

Next row: K2, [Rope A], [Celtic cable A], [Rope B], K2.

Work in patt until the band is long enough to fit around the head when slightly stretched, ending with an 8th patt row. Cast off.

With 3.75 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 132 sts evenly along one long edge of the band. Work 6” (15 cm) double rib as follows (note: adjust length if you have a smaller head).

Rib row: (K2, P2) to end.

Shape top as follows:

1st row: (rib 10, P2 tog) 11 times (121 sts)

2nd row: (K1, rib 10) 11 times.

3rd row: (rib 6, P2 tog, K2, P1) 11 times (110 sts)

4th row: (K1, P2, K1, P2, rib 4) 11 times.

5th row: (K2, P2 tog, K2, P1, K2, P1) 11 times (99 sts)

6th row: (K1, P2) to end.

7th row: (K2, P1, K2, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (88 sts)

8th row: (K1, P4, K1, P2) 11 times.

9th row: (K2, P1, K1, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (77 sts)

10th row: (K1, P3, K1, P2) 11 times.

11th row: (K2, P1, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (66 sts)

12th row: As 6th row.

13th row: (K2, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (55 sts)

14th row: (K1, P4) 11 times

15th row: (K1, K2tog, K1, P1) 11 times (44 sts)

16th row: (K1, P3) 11 times

17th row: (K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (33 sts)

18th row: K1, (P1, P2 tog) 10 times, P2 tog (22 sts)

19th row: (K2 tog) 11 times (11 sts)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail and thread through rem 11 sts, draw up and stitch in place.

Join seam, changing to reverse side for band. Turn back band along picked up join. Work a line of backstitch, from the right side, about ¼” (0.5 cm) from the lower edge to hold in place. Do not pull too tight – the band still needs to stretch!