Raspberry Ripple - Vintage-inspired top

Vintage-styled short-sleeved top with mitred neck

I made this for one of my daughters for Christmas. She’s into the fifties look, and has recently won an award for Best Vintage-Inspired Designer in Manchester (see Kally’s blog here), but she doesn’t knit so it’s something I can make that she can’t!

I used the same stitch pattern as for the Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket, but in 4-ply and with only one contrast colour.

Materials:

Back view of top

150g 4-ply yarn in main colour (black) and 100g in contrast (raspberry) – I used some of the Bramwell 100% acrylic coned yarn left over from my machine knitting days, but any yarn that knits to the correct tension will do.

1 pair 3 mm (UK 11) needles

1 pair 3.75 mm (UK 9) needles

Tension:

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 in/10 cm over pattern.

Measurements:

To fit size 42 to 44 in bust – actual measurements bust 40 in (unstretched), length 20 in, sleeve seam 4½ in.

Abbreviations: 

K      knit

P      purl

M1    make 1 st (pick up loop between 2 sts and knit into the back of it)

st st  stocking stitch

g st   garter stitch (every row K) 

patt  pattern

tog    together

st(s)  stitch(es)

inc    increase

dec   decrease

RS     right side

WS    wrong side

MC    main colour

CC    contrast colour

in      inch(es) 

Back:

Using MC and size 3 mm needles, cast on 119 sts. Work 3½ in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.75 mm needles and join in CC – do not cut MC yarn, just carry it up the side of your work, taking care not to pull it too tightly. Work as follows:

Inc row: K2, M1, (K5, M1) 23 times, K2 (143 sts). Work 3 further rows in CC, in st st.

Pattern row (RS): Using MC, K2tog twice, (K1, M1) 4 times, K1, K2tog twice. Repeat to end of row (13 st repeat)

Work 3 rows g st.

Using CC, work pattern row again, then st st 3 rows.

Continue in this manner, working 4 rows MC in g st then 4 rows CC in st st, the first row in each colour being the pattern row, until work measures 13 in.

Decrease for armholes: Keeping continuity of patt, cast off 9 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows (115 sts).**

Dec 1 st at each end of 2^nd and each alt row (RS rows) until 91 sts remain.

Work straight until work measures 6 in from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a fourth contrast row.

Shape neck: Patt 13, turn and patt 13 more rows on these 13 sts, thus ending at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: Cast off 7 sts at start of next row. Patt 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 sts.

Place next 65 sts on stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to rem 13 sts and work 15 rows, thus ending at armhole edge. Shape shoulder as above.

Back neck: Using MC and 3.25 mm needles, with RS facing you, pick up and K 10 sts down right side of neck (right hand side on work), K across 65 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K 10 sts up other side of work (85 sts). K 1 row.

Continue to work neck as follows:

1st row:	K8,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K61,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K8.	(81 sts)
2nd and foll WS rows: K to end
3rd row:	K7,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K59,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K7.	(77 sts)
5th row:	K6,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K57,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K6.	(73 sts)
7th row:	K5,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K55,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K5.	(69 sts)
9th row:	K4,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K53,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K4.	(65 sts)
11th row:	K3,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K51,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K3.	(61 sts)
13th row:	K2,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K49,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K2.	(57 sts)
15th row:	K1,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K47,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K1.	(53 sts)
17th row:		K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K45,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,		(49 sts)
18th row: (WS) K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. Cast off remaining 47 sts fairly loosely.

Front:

Work as for back to **.

Dec 1 st at each end of 2^nd and each alt row (RS rows) until 111 sts remain, ending with a WS row.

Divide for front neck: K2 tog, patt 21, turn leaving remaining 88 sts on needle. Working on these 22 sts, continue in patt, continuing to dec 1 st at armhole edge on each RS row until 13 sts remain. Continue straight until front is same length as back to shoulder cast off, cast off as for front.

Place next 65 sts on a stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to remaining 23 sts. Patt to last 2 sts, K2 tog.

Continue in patt as for other side of front neck, reversing all shapings.

Front neck: Using MC and 3.25 mm needles, with RS facing you, pick up and K 38 sts down left side of neck (right hand side on work), K across 65 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K 38 sts up other side of work (141 sts). K 1 row.

Continue to work neck as follows:

1st row:	K36,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K61,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K36.	(137 sts)
2nd and foll WS rows: K to end
3rd row:	K35,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K59,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K35.	(133 sts)
5th row:	K34,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K57,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K34.	(129 sts)
7th row:	K33,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K55,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K33.	(125 sts)
9th row:	K32,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K53,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K32.	(121 sts)
11th row:	K31,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K51,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K31.	(117 sts)
13th row:	K30,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K49,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K30.	(113 sts)
15th row:	K29,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K47,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K29.	(109 sts)
17th row:	K28,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K45,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K28.	(105 sts)
18th row: K to end.

Cast off fairly loosely, working double decreases at mitred corners in line with those already worked.

Sleeve (make 2):

Using MC and size 3 mm needles, cast on 87 sts. Work 1½ in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.75 mm needles and join in CC.

Inc row: K4, M1, (K5, M1) 16 times, K3 (104 sts). Work 3 further rows in CC, in st st.

Continue in patt as for back until work measures 4½ in from start.

Decrease for armholes: Keeping continuity of patt, cast off 9 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row (RS) and following alt rows until 64 sts remain.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following 4^th rows (RS) until 50 sts remain, then every alt row until 34 sts remain, ending with a RS row.

Next row: (P2 tog) 17 times. Cast off remaining 17 sts.

To make up:

Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions).

Set in sleeves, then join sleeve and side seams. Sew ends into seams. Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket

I've finally managed to design and knit something for myself - I haven't seen this stitch pattern anywhere else so I guess I must have invented it! I wanted a comfy hooded jacket for winter days at my husband's freezing cold shop, and used twelve colours plus black to make it. You could try using a single contrast colour, or two, three or four - it's a great way of using up odd balls of yarn from your stash. You might want to use more subtle contrast colours, especially if you make it for a man, but I love bright colours so I'm going to wear them all!

Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket - front (see below for back view)

Instructions

Materials:

Woolcraft New Fashion or Hayfield Budget DK (100% acrylic):

4 x 100g balls black (MC)

30g of each of 12 contrast colours

Note: If you choose to use only one contrast colour, you will need 4 x 100g balls; 6 contrast colours will require 60g of each and so on.

26 in open ended zip to match MC.

Pair 4 mm long knitting needles (at least 14 in/35 cm)

Pair 3.5 mm long knitting needles

Tension:

23 sts and 32 rows to 10 cm/4 in over pattern

Size:

To fit 40-42 in bust/chest – actual measurement 45 in

Length 27.5 in

Sleeve seam 17 in

Abbreviations:

K      knit

P      purl

M1    make 1 st by picking up loop between 2 sts and knitting into the back of it

st st        stocking stitch

g st        garter stitch (every row K)

patt        pattern

tog        together

st(s)        stitch(es)

inc        increase

dec        decrease

RS     right side

WS        wrong side

MC    main colour

in        inch(es)

Back:

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 130 sts and knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and join in first contrast – do not cut MC yarn, just carry it up the side of your work, taking care not to pull it too tightly. Work as follows:

Pattern row (RS): K2tog twice, (K1, M1) 4 times, K1, K2tog twice. Repeat to end of row (13 st repeat)

Work 3 rows st st, starting with a purl row.

Using MC, work pattern row again, then knit 3 rows.

Continue in this manner, working 4 rows contrast in st st, then 4 rows MC in g st, the first row in each colour being the pattern row, until work measures 17 in.

Decrease for raglan:

Note: take care to keep continuity of pattern: use markers to indicate end of pattern repeat as needed)

Cast off 1 st at start of next 2 rows, work 2 rows straight.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alternate (RS) rows until 40 sts remain. Cast off.

Pocket linings: (make 2)

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 27 sts and work in st st for 5½ in. Leave sts on a spare needle.

Left front:

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 65 sts. Knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back until work measures 7 in, ending with 4^th pattern (contrast) row.

Insert pocket lining and form pocket opening:

Next row (RS): With MC, pattern 19 sts, place next 27 sts on a stitch holder, patt 27 sts from spare needle, patt remaining 19 sts (65 sts).

Continue in patt until front measures same as back to start of raglan decrease.

Decrease for raglan: (see note above)

Cast off 1 st at start of next row, work 3 rows straight.

Dec 1 st at start of next and alt (RS) rows until 29 sts remain, ending with a RS row.

Shape neck: Cast off 5 sts at start of next row. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 rows, at the same time continuing to dec on alt RS rows at armhole edge, until 4 sts remain.

Next row: K2 tog twice

Next row: p2

Next row: K2tog and fasten off.

Right front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.

Pocket tops: (2 alike)

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, place 27 sts from stitch holder on needle with RS facing and k 4 rows. Cast off.

Sleeve: (make 2)

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, cast on 65 sts and knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back, increasing 1 st at each end of next (RS) row and every following 8^th row until there are 91 sts. Take care to incorporate new stitches into pattern (see note above).

Work straight until work measures the same as the back to armhole shaping.

Note: if you need to adjust the length of the sleeves or the body, you must ensure that the pattern still matches up when you come to work the raglan shaping. For example, if you reduce the sleeve length by one pattern, start the sleeve pattern with the second contrast.

Decrease for raglan:  

Cast off 1 st at start of next 2 rows.

Work 2 rows straight, then dec 1 st at each end of the next row. Work 1 row straight.

Repeat last 4 rows twice more (83 sts).

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alternate (RS) rows until 7 sts remain. Cast off.

Hood:

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, cast on 169 sts. Knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back until work measures 2½ in, ending with WS row.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows until there are 143 sts.

Work straight until work measures 10½ in. Cast off.

Front borders:

For each side, using 3.5 mm needles and MC, pick up and knit 156 sts evenly along front edge. Knit 2 rows. Cast off loosely (use a size larger needle if necessary).

Making up:

Press pieces according to instructions on ball band (do not press 100% acrylic yarn).

Sew edges of pocket tops to front, and edges of pocket linings to inside of fronts.

Join raglan seams, matching coloured stripes carefully. Join side and sleeve seams. Insert zip. Attach hood to neck, easing in any fullness.

Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

Back of jacket