Showing posts with label collar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label collar. Show all posts

Tuesday, 12 March 2013

Variation on a theme - another version of the Celtic Cable sweater vest

No pattern this time as such, I just wanted to post about the new version of the Celtic Cable Sweater Vest I've recently finished. I was pleased to see lots of interest in this patttern, especially the hat - I'm in the process of making/designing more hats and other accessories, which I'm intending to put on Ravelry later.
This time I used a dark grey marl DK yarn, again unbranded, but possibly Jarol Heritage, a colour I can wear with my red, green and purple tops. I substituted an extended Saxon Braid panel, flanked with double rope cables, with the number of stitches adding up to 54 as in the pattern. Although I had visualised the braid, I found that someone had already worked out the stitch pattern, so I can't really claim it as my own - see The Barrington Braid here.


I made the collar the same as before, with hidden buttons and buttonholes at the front edge of the collar so it can be fastened right up.

Detail of the cable pattern is shown on the right.

Happy cabling!

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Celtic braid sweater vest and hat


I designed this sleeveless sweater for myself as I had a “bargain bag” of yarn that I knew wouldn’t stretch to a sweater with sleeves, and I’m so pleased with it – I incorporated pockets (to keep my hands warm) and a collar that can be buttoned right up (I hate wearing scarves). The cable pattern looks more complicated than it is – there are only two types of cable, the Celtic pattern I used in the Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim, and a simple rope cable, doubled in the centre of the pattern.
I’m not sure what the yarn is, it could be Jarol Heritage, which is a wool-rich mix. The colour is a beautiful deep red, which for some reason is really hard to photograph accurately with my camera, you’ll just have to take my word for it! I had enough yarn left to make a matching hat – the patterns for both are here.

Materials:

Jarol Heritage DK (55% wool/25% acrylic/20% nylon): 350g for sweater vest, 80g for hat
7 x ½” (12 mm) buttons for sweater vest
Pair UK8/4 mm needles plus one spare.
Pair UK9/3.75 mm needles
Pair UK10/3.25 mm needles
Cable needle
Stitch holders/safety pins

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4”/10 cm over stocking stitch

Measurements:

Sweater vest to fit 40” to 42” (101-106 cm) bust/chest – actual measurement 44” (112 cm), length 26” (66 cm).
Hat to fit head 23”-24” (58-61 cm) circumference – can be adjusted

Abbreviations:

K
knit
C4B
Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle
P
purl
st st
stocking stitch
patt
pattern
C4F
Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle
tog
together
st(s)
stich(es)
inc
increase
T4B
Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle
dec
decrease
RS
right side
WS
wrong side
T4F
Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle
in
inch(es)
rem
remaining
yrnc
yarn round needle clockwise

Pattern panel (54 sts)

Row
Rope A
Celtic braid A
Double rope
Celtic braid B
Rope B
1
P1, K4
P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3
K8
P3, C4F, P4, C4F, P3
K4, P1
2
K1, P4
K3, P4, K4, P4, K3
P8
K3, P4, K4, P4, K3
P4, K1
3
P1, C4F
P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1
C4B, C4F
P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1
C4B, P1
4
K1, P4
K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1
P8
K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1
P4, K1
5
P1, K4
P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1
K8
P1, K2, P4, C4B, P4, K2, P1
K4, P1
6
K1, P4
K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1
P8
K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1
P4, K1
7
P1, C4F
P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1
C4B, C4F
P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1
C4B, P1
8
K1, P4
K3, P4, K4, P4, K3
P8
K3, P4, K4, P4, K3
P4, K1

Detail of cable pattern

Sweater vest instructions

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 128 sts and work in double rib as follows for 3” (7.5 cm)
1st rib row: K1, (P2, K2) to last 3 sts, P2, K1
2nd rib row: K3, (P2, K2) to last 5 sts, P2, K3
Inc row: Rib 8, (inc in next st, rib 15) 7 times, inc in next st, rib 7 (136 sts).
Change to 4 mm needles and continue as follows, working the pattern panel from the 1st row:
Next row: K41, work 54 sts of patt panel, K41.
Next row: P41, work 54 sts of patt panel, P41.
Continue in pattern as set until work measures 16.5” (42 cm) or desired length to armhole shaping.
Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (90 sts).
Continue until work measures 9.5” (24 cm) from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (26”/66 cm total).
Shape shoulders: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 54 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Pocket linings (make 2):

With 4 mm needles, cast on 25 sts and work 16 rows in st st. Leave sts on stitch holder.

Front:

Cast on and work ribbing (including inc row) as for Back. Change to 4 mm needles and work 16 rows as for back.
Divide for pockets: K16, K25 from top of pocket lining, turn and, using spare 4 mm needle, st st 39 rows on these 41 sts, thus ending with a RS row. Cast off 25 sts and P to end. Leave rem 16 sts on stitch holder.
Rejoin yarn to sts on main needle and work 104 sts keeping continuity of patt, turn, placing last 16 sts on a stitch holder, and, using spare needle, work 40 rows in patt on these 104 sts. Leave these sts on needle.
Place 16 sts from stitch holder then 25 sts of second pocket lining on left hand needle, rejoin yarn and work 40 rows in st st. Cast off 25 sts.
Keeping the 16 sts on the left hand needle, replace the 104 sts from the main part and the 16 sts from the right hand part back onto this needle (136 sts). Continue in patt as for back until front matches back to armhole shaping.
Armhole shaping and divide for neck: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row, work 58 sts, cast off next 8 sts and work to end.
Cast off 6 sts at start of next row, work to centre cast off, turn and work on these 58 sts.
**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (41 sts). At the same time keep neck edge straight and keep continuity of patt.
Work straight until you have completed 15 rows less than back to shoulder dec (14 rows less on other side of front).
Next row: Work to last 13 sts, place these sts on a large safety pin, turn and work on rem 28 sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 7 rows, then each alt (RS) row 3 times (18 sts).
Shoulder shaping: Cast off 6 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 6 sts.
Rejoin yarn to rem 58 sts and work 1 WS row. Work from ** to complete other side of front, reversing all shapings.

Pocket edgings (both alike):

Sew pocket linings to inside of front. With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 40 sts along outside edge of pocket opening and work 9 rows rib as for back. Cast off using a size larger needle.

Button band:

With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 52 sts down left side of front opening (right side for a man) and complete as for pocket edgings.

Buttonhole band:

As for button band, but working two buttonhole rows on 5th and 6th rows as follows:
1st buttonhole row (WS): Rib 3, (yarn to back, yrnc, K2 tog, rib 10) 4 times, K1.
2nd buttonhole row (RS): rib as normal, working into the back of the loops made by the yrnc on the previous row.
Note: This method will give you neat holes which are almost invisible in wear, and you should not need to neaten the edges as with other methods. The buttonholes will be big enough for small buttons
Lap buttonhole band over button band at the bottom and stitch to cast off stitches at centre front.

Collar:

With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 10 sts from top of buttonhole band (button band for a man). Work across 13 sts from safety pin, reducing to 10 sts as follows: K1, (K2 tog, K2) 3 times. Then pick up 20 sts along front left neck. Work across 54 sts from back neck, reducing to 40 as follows: (K2 tog, K2) 13 times, K2 tog. Pick up 20 sts along right front neck edge, work across 13 sts from safety pin, reducing to 10 as follows: (K2, K2 tog) 3 times, K1. Pick up 10 sts from top of other band. (120 sts).
Work 16 rows rib as for back, starting with 2nd row, then change to 3.75 mm needles and work another 21 rows. At the same time, make a buttonhole at the start of the 10th, 22nd and 34th rows as follows: K1, P2, yrnc, K2 tog, rib to end. Remember to work into the back of the buttonhole stitch on the return rows.
Cast off ribwise using a size larger needle.

Armbands (both alike):

Join shoulder seams. With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 140 sts evenly along armhole edge and complete as for pocket edgings.
Join side seams and darn in ends. Press stocking stitch parts only according to ball band instructions. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
Below are photos of the various ways of wearing the collar.




Hat instructions

With 4 mm needles cast on 32 sts Work foundation row as follows:
(K3, P4) twice, K4, (P4, K3) twice.
Continue in pattern, using the pattern panel chart but omitting the double rope and Celtic cable B columns and adding 2 K sts at the start of each row as follows:
Next row: K2, [Rope A], [Celtic cable A], [Rope B], K2.
Work in patt until the band is long enough to fit around the head when slightly stretched, ending with an 8th patt row. Cast off.
With 3.75 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 132 sts evenly along one long edge of the band. Work 6” (15 cm) double rib as follows (note: adjust length if you have a smaller head).
Rib row: (K2, P2) to end.
Shape top as follows:
1st row: (rib 10, P2 tog) 11 times (121 sts)
2nd row: (K1, rib 10) 11 times.
3rd row: (rib 6, P2 tog, K2, P1) 11 times (110 sts)
4th row: (K1, P2, K1, P2, rib 4) 11 times.
5th row: (K2, P2 tog, K2, P1, K2, P1) 11 times (99 sts)
6th row: (K1, P2) to end.
7th row: (K2, P1, K2, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (88 sts)
8th row: (K1, P4, K1, P2) 11 times.
9th row: (K2, P1, K1, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (77 sts)
10th row: (K1, P3, K1, P2) 11 times.
11th row: (K2, P1, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (66 sts)
12th row: As 6th row.
13th row: (K2, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (55 sts)
14th row: (K1, P4) 11 times
15th row: (K1, K2tog, K1, P1) 11 times (44 sts)
16th row: (K1, P3) 11 times
17th row: (K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (33 sts)
18th row: K1, (P1, P2 tog) 10 times, P2 tog (22 sts)
19th row: (K2 tog) 11 times (11 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail and thread through rem 11 sts, draw up and stitch in place.
Join seam, changing to reverse side for band. Turn back band along picked up join. Work a line of backstitch, from the right side, about ¼” (0.5 cm) from the lower edge to hold in place. Do not pull too tight – the band still needs to stretch!


Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim

Well, the bad weather's finally arrived, a great excuse to stay in the warm and knit! I finished this sweater before Christmas and have worn it several times already - I wanted something reasonably warm but not too bulky to wear indoors. I also hate crew necks - they really annoy me - so I came up with this design with a shirt-style collar. The cable trim is enough to stop the design being totally boring to knit, but it was still finished in just over a week. 



Materials: 

500g 100% acrylic DK
(I used Woolcraft New Fashion in Shade 723 Imperial – a bright purple which looks more blue in the photos!))
Pair each 3.25 mm, 3.75 mm and 4 mm needles, plus one 4.5 mm needle for casting off collar
Cable needle
Stitch holder
3 large safety pins or nappy pins
3 x 12 mm buttons

Measurements:

To fit chest/bust 40–42 in (actual measurement 44 in). Length 26 in, sleeve seam 16 in.

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 in over st st

Abbreviations:

K         knit
P         purl
st st    stocking stitch 
patt   pattern
tog     together
st(s)   stitch(es)
inc     increase
dec    decrease
RS      right side
WS     wrong side
rem    remaining 
C4B    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
C4F    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
T4B     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle.
T4F     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle.

First pattern panel:

1st row: P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3
2nd row: K3, P4, K4, P4, K3
3rd row: P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1
4th row: K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1
5th row: P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1
6th row: as 4th row
7th row: P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1
8th row: as 2nd row

Second pattern panel:

Work as for first pattern panel, reading C4F for C4B and vice versa throughout.

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 133 sts and work 3 inches in K1, P1 rib.
Change to 4 mm needles and work as follows:
1st row: K26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, K45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, K to end.
2nd row: P26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, P45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, P to end.
Repeat these two rows until work measures 16 inches, or desired side seam length, ending with a WS row.
Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (85 sts).
Continue until work measures 9.5 inches from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (25.5 in total).
Shape shoulders: Cast off 8 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 39 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Front:

Work as for back to start of armhole shaping.
Shape armholes and divide for neck: Cast off 6, K20, work 18 sts of 1st patt panel, K19, turn. Working on these sts only, work to end of row.
**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (40 sts).
Work straight until you have completed 12 rows less than back to shoulder dec (11 rows less on other side of front). On next (RS) row, work to last 8 sts, place these 8 sts on a safety pin, turn and dec 1 st at neck edge at start of next row.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows and foll alt 3 rows. Work 2 rows straight. Cast off 8 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 8 sts.
Place next 7 sts on needle onto a second safety pin. Rejoin yarn and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row. Work rest of front as for first side from **.

Right sleeve

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 59 sts and work 3 inches in rib as for back, working 1 row less than for back.
Inc row: Rib 6, (inc in next st, rib 3) 13 times, rib 1 (72 sts).
Change to 4 mm needles. Next row: K 27, work 18 sts of 1st patt panel, K27
Next row: P27, work 18 sts of 1st patt panel, P27.
Continue in this manner, inc 1 st at each end of the 9th and every foll 8th row until there are 96 sts. Work stright until work measures 16 in or desired sleeve length.
Shape top of sleeve: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, then following alt (RS) rows until there are 40 sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of every row until there are 28 sts. Cast off 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 22 sts.

Left sleeve

Work exactly as for right sleeve, but use the second patt panel instead of the first.

Button band

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 9 sts. 1st row: K1, (P1, K1) to end. 2nd row: K1, (K1, P1 to last st, K1.
Repeat these 2 rows until the work measures 7.5 inches. Place sts on safety pin.

Buttonhole band

Place 7 sts at centre of front onto 3.25 mm needles with WS facing.
Next row: K2, (P1, K2in) twice, K1 (9 sts)
Next row: K1, (P1, K1) to end.
Rib 16 more rows.
1st buttonhole row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib 3
2nd buttonhole row: Rib 3, turn and cast on 3, turn and rib 3.
(Rib 18 rows and work 2 buttonhole rows) twice. Rib 2 rows. Do not break yarn or remove from needle.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.
With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles, rib across 9 sts on needle at top of buttonhole band, K across 8 sts from safety pin at right front neck. Pick up and knit 20 sts up shaped edge of right front neck, K across sts from holder at back neck, pick up and K 20 sts down shaped edge of left front neck, K across 8 sts on safety pin at left front, and finally rib across the 9 sts at the top of the button band (113 sts).
Work 9 rows rib using 3.25 mm needles, 10 rows using 3.75 mm needles, and 10 rows with 4 mm needles. Cast off in rib using 4.5 mm needle.
Detail of the neck and collar

Finishing

Join bands to front neck using a flat seam. Catch bottom edge of button band to inside behind buttonhole band.
Attach sleeves to body, join sleeve and side seams.
Neaten buttonholes and attach buttons.
Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions). Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.