Celtic braid sweater vest and hat

I designed this sleeveless sweater for myself as I had a “bargain bag” of yarn that I knew wouldn’t stretch to a sweater with sleeves, and I’m so pleased with it – I incorporated pockets (to keep my hands warm) and a collar that can be buttoned right up (I hate wearing scarves). The cable pattern looks more complicated than it is – there are only two types of cable, the Celtic pattern I used in the Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim, and a simple rope cable, doubled in the centre of the pattern.

I’m not sure what the yarn is, it could be Jarol Heritage, which is a wool-rich mix. The colour is a beautiful deep red, which for some reason is really hard to photograph accurately with my camera, you’ll just have to take my word for it! I had enough yarn left to make a matching hat – the patterns for both are here.

Materials:

Jarol Heritage DK (55% wool/25% acrylic/20% nylon): 350g for sweater vest, 80g for hat

7 x ½” (12 mm) buttons for sweater vest

Pair UK8/4 mm needles plus one spare.

Pair UK9/3.75 mm needles

Pair UK10/3.25 mm needles

Cable needle

Stitch holders/safety pins

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4”/10 cm over stocking stitch

Measurements:

Sweater vest to fit 40” to 42” (101-106 cm) bust/chest – actual measurement 44” (112 cm), length 26” (66 cm).

Hat to fit head 23”-24” (58-61 cm) circumference – can be adjusted

Abbreviations:

K	knit	C4B	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle
P	purl
st st	stocking stitch
patt	pattern	C4F	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle
tog	together
st(s)	stich(es)
inc	increase	T4B	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle
dec	decrease
RS	right side
WS	wrong side	T4F	Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle
in	inch(es)
rem	remaining
yrnc	yarn round needle clockwise

Pattern panel (54 sts)

Row	Rope A	Celtic braid A	Double rope	Celtic braid B	Rope B
1	P1, K4	P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3	K8	P3, C4F, P4, C4F, P3	K4, P1
2	K1, P4	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P8	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P4, K1
3	P1, C4F	P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1	C4B, C4F	P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1	C4B, P1
4	K1, P4	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P8	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P4, K1
5	P1, K4	P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1	K8	P1, K2, P4, C4B, P4, K2, P1	K4, P1
6	K1, P4	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P8	K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1	P4, K1
7	P1, C4F	P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1	C4B, C4F	P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1	C4B, P1
8	K1, P4	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P8	K3, P4, K4, P4, K3	P4, K1

Detail of cable pattern

Sweater vest instructions

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 128 sts and work in double rib as follows for 3” (7.5 cm)

1st rib row: K1, (P2, K2) to last 3 sts, P2, K1

2nd rib row: K3, (P2, K2) to last 5 sts, P2, K3

Inc row: Rib 8, (inc in next st, rib 15) 7 times, inc in next st, rib 7 (136 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles and continue as follows, working the pattern panel from the 1st row:

Next row: K41, work 54 sts of patt panel, K41.

Next row: P41, work 54 sts of patt panel, P41.

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 16.5” (42 cm) or desired length to armhole shaping.

Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (90 sts).

Continue until work measures 9.5” (24 cm) from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (26”/66 cm total).

Shape shoulders: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 54 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Pocket linings (make 2):

With 4 mm needles, cast on 25 sts and work 16 rows in st st. Leave sts on stitch holder.

Front:

Cast on and work ribbing (including inc row) as for Back. Change to 4 mm needles and work 16 rows as for back.

Divide for pockets: K16, K25 from top of pocket lining, turn and, using spare 4 mm needle, st st 39 rows on these 41 sts, thus ending with a RS row. Cast off 25 sts and P to end. Leave rem 16 sts on stitch holder.

Rejoin yarn to sts on main needle and work 104 sts keeping continuity of patt, turn, placing last 16 sts on a stitch holder, and, using spare needle, work 40 rows in patt on these 104 sts. Leave these sts on needle.

Place 16 sts from stitch holder then 25 sts of second pocket lining on left hand needle, rejoin yarn and work 40 rows in st st. Cast off 25 sts.

Keeping the 16 sts on the left hand needle, replace the 104 sts from the main part and the 16 sts from the right hand part back onto this needle (136 sts). Continue in patt as for back until front matches back to armhole shaping.

Armhole shaping and divide for neck: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row, work 58 sts, cast off next 8 sts and work to end.

Cast off 6 sts at start of next row, work to centre cast off, turn and work on these 58 sts.

**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (41 sts). At the same time keep neck edge straight and keep continuity of patt.

Work straight until you have completed 15 rows less than back to shoulder dec (14 rows less on other side of front).

Next row: Work to last 13 sts, place these sts on a large safety pin, turn and work on rem 28 sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 7 rows, then each alt (RS) row 3 times (18 sts).

Shoulder shaping: Cast off 6 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 6 sts.

Rejoin yarn to rem 58 sts and work 1 WS row. Work from ** to complete other side of front, reversing all shapings.

Pocket edgings (both alike):

Sew pocket linings to inside of front. With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 40 sts along outside edge of pocket opening and work 9 rows rib as for back. Cast off using a size larger needle.

Button band:

With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 52 sts down left side of front opening (right side for a man) and complete as for pocket edgings.

Buttonhole band:

As for button band, but working two buttonhole rows on 5th and 6th rows as follows:

1st buttonhole row (WS): Rib 3, (yarn to back, yrnc, K2 tog, rib 10) 4 times, K1.

2nd buttonhole row (RS): rib as normal, working into the back of the loops made by the yrnc on the previous row.

Note: This method will give you neat holes which are almost invisible in wear, and you should not need to neaten the edges as with other methods. The buttonholes will be big enough for small buttons

Lap buttonhole band over button band at the bottom and stitch to cast off stitches at centre front.

Collar:

With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 10 sts from top of buttonhole band (button band for a man). Work across 13 sts from safety pin, reducing to 10 sts as follows: K1, (K2 tog, K2) 3 times. Then pick up 20 sts along front left neck. Work across 54 sts from back neck, reducing to 40 as follows: (K2 tog, K2) 13 times, K2 tog. Pick up 20 sts along right front neck edge, work across 13 sts from safety pin, reducing to 10 as follows: (K2, K2 tog) 3 times, K1. Pick up 10 sts from top of other band. (120 sts).

Work 16 rows rib as for back, starting with 2nd row, then change to 3.75 mm needles and work another 21 rows. At the same time, make a buttonhole at the start of the 10th, 22nd and 34th rows as follows: K1, P2, yrnc, K2 tog, rib to end. Remember to work into the back of the buttonhole stitch on the return rows.

Cast off ribwise using a size larger needle.

Armbands (both alike):

Join shoulder seams. With 3.25 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 140 sts evenly along armhole edge and complete as for pocket edgings.

Join side seams and darn in ends. Press stocking stitch parts only according to ball band instructions. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Below are photos of the various ways of wearing the collar.

Hat instructions

With 4 mm needles cast on 32 sts Work foundation row as follows:

(K3, P4) twice, K4, (P4, K3) twice.

Continue in pattern, using the pattern panel chart but omitting the double rope and Celtic cable B columns and adding 2 K sts at the start of each row as follows:

Next row: K2, [Rope A], [Celtic cable A], [Rope B], K2.

Work in patt until the band is long enough to fit around the head when slightly stretched, ending with an 8th patt row. Cast off.

With 3.75 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 132 sts evenly along one long edge of the band. Work 6” (15 cm) double rib as follows (note: adjust length if you have a smaller head).

Rib row: (K2, P2) to end.

Shape top as follows:

1st row: (rib 10, P2 tog) 11 times (121 sts)

2nd row: (K1, rib 10) 11 times.

3rd row: (rib 6, P2 tog, K2, P1) 11 times (110 sts)

4th row: (K1, P2, K1, P2, rib 4) 11 times.

5th row: (K2, P2 tog, K2, P1, K2, P1) 11 times (99 sts)

6th row: (K1, P2) to end.

7th row: (K2, P1, K2, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (88 sts)

8th row: (K1, P4, K1, P2) 11 times.

9th row: (K2, P1, K1, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (77 sts)

10th row: (K1, P3, K1, P2) 11 times.

11th row: (K2, P1, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (66 sts)

12th row: As 6th row.

13th row: (K2, K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (55 sts)

14th row: (K1, P4) 11 times

15th row: (K1, K2tog, K1, P1) 11 times (44 sts)

16th row: (K1, P3) 11 times

17th row: (K2 tog, K1, P1) 11 times (33 sts)

18th row: K1, (P1, P2 tog) 10 times, P2 tog (22 sts)

19th row: (K2 tog) 11 times (11 sts)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail and thread through rem 11 sts, draw up and stitch in place.

Join seam, changing to reverse side for band. Turn back band along picked up join. Work a line of backstitch, from the right side, about ¼” (0.5 cm) from the lower edge to hold in place. Do not pull too tight – the band still needs to stretch!

Mitred pocket toddler dress

I designed this little dress and made it in machine washable acrylic yarn, for my granddaughter to wear over a top and tights or leggings. It would be suitable as a sundress if knitted in cotton – I might try it if we ever get any warm weather!

I made the 22 inch size – Elanor is 2½ and quite tall for her age, but by increasing the needle size the pattern would be suitable for the average four-year-old. 

This yarn is Supreme DK from my local B & M store, but any suitable yarn which knits up to the same tension will be fine.

Materials:

100% acrylic DK as follows:

150g main colour

25g contrast 1

20g each contrasts 2 and 3

2 x ½ inch (12mm) buttons

For 22 inch size: Pair each 3.75mm (UK9) and 3.25mm (UK10) needles

For 24 inch size: Pair each 4mm (UK8) and 3.75mm (UK9) needles

3.5mm crochet hook

Tension:

22 inch size: 24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 3.75mm needles

24 inch size: 22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 4mm needles

Measurements:

To fit age 2/3 (3/4)

Sizes 22 (24) inches approx.

Actual measurements:

Chest 23½ (25½) inches

Length 20½ (22) inches

Abbreviations: 

K       knit 

P        purl 

g st    garter stitch (every row K) 

st st   stocking stitch 

tog     together

st(s)   stitch(es)

S1      slip one without knitting

psso   pass slipped stitch over

RS      right side

WS     wrong side

MC     main colour

C1      first contrast

C2      second contrast

C3      third contrast

dc      double crochet

rem    remaining

alt      alternate

Back:

With larger needles and C1, cast on 114 sts and work in g st as follows, joining in contrast colours as required and carrying MC up side of work when not in use: 2 rows C1 (green), 2 rows MC (purple), 4 rows C2 (pink), 2 rows MC, 4 rows C3 (peacock).

Change to MC and, working in st st, continue as follows:

First dec row: (S1, K1, psso, K34, K2tog) 3 times. Work 11 more rows in st st.

Second dec row: (S1, K1, psso, K32, K2tog) 3 times. Work 11 more rows in st st.

Continue in this manner, reducing the number of stitches between decs by 2 each time, until there are 72 sts rem on needle, ending with a WS row.

Note: Work should measure about 11 inches for smaller size, about 12 inches for larger size.

Change to smaller needles and work in g st for waistband as follows: 4 rows C1, 2 rows MC, 4 rows C2, 2 rows MC, 4 rows C3.

Change to larger needles and work 20 rows in MC in st st.

Armhole shaping: Cast off 4 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 5 rows and each following alt (RS) row 3 times, until 48 sts remain.

Work 31 rows straight, thus ending with a WS row.

Divide for neck: K 14, K 2tog, turn, P 15. Working on these sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge on next row. P 1 row.

Shoulder shaping: Cast off 7 sts at start of next row, work 1 row, then cast off rem 7 sts.

Place centre 16 sts on a stitch holder or large safety pin. Rejoin yarn to rem 16 sts, dec 1 st at neck edge on next and foll alt row. Work 1 row (WS facing), cast off 7 sts at start of next row. Work 1 row then cast off rem 7 sts.

Front:

Work as for Back as far as end of armhole shaping. Work 15 rows straight in MC in st st.

Divide for neck: K 17, K 2tog, turn.

Next row: P 2 tog, P to end. Continue to dec at neck edge of each row twice more, then on alt (RS) rows only twice (14 sts)

Work 13 rows straight, thus ending at armhole edge.

Shoulder shaping: Cast off 7 sts at start of next row, work 1 row, then cast off rem 7 sts.

Place next 10 sts on a safety pin. Rejoin yarn to rem 19 sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows, then on next 2 alt rows.

Work 14 rows straight, then cast off as for first shoulder.

Neck edging:

Join right shoulder seam. With smaller needles and C1 (green), with RS facing you, pick up 20 sts down left side of front neck, K across 10 sts from safety pin at centre front, pick up 20 sts up right side of front neck, then 5 sts from right side of back neck, K across 16 sts from safety pin at centre back neck, and pick up 5 sts from left back neck (76 sts).

Work 3 rows g st. Cast off using larger needle.

Armhole edgings:

Join left shoulder seam for ½ inch only, leaving it open at neck. With smaller needles and C1 (green), with RS facing you, pick up 84 sts evenly along armhole edge. Work 3 rows g st and cast off. Finish second armhole to match.

With MC and crochet hook, work 1 row dc along both sides of left shoulder opening, working 2 chain buttonholes on front, one being on the neck edging and the other about halfway along the shoulder edge.

Pockets (make 2):

Worked in g st throughout.

With larger needles and C1 (green), cast on 44 sts and work as follows, using colour sequence below:

Foundation row: S1, K1, psso, K to last 2 sts, K 2tog.

Next row (RS): K 19, K 2tog, S1, K1, psso, K 19.

Next row: (WS) K

Next row: K 18, K 2tog, S1, K1, psso, K 18.

Next row: K

Continue in this manner, working 1 less st each side of the centre double dec, until 4 sts remain.

Next row: K 2tog, S1, K1, psso

K 2 tog and fasten off.

Colour sequence for pocket:

Foundation row and next row C1 (green), then

2 rows MC (purple)

4 rows C2 (pink)

2 rows MC

4 rows C3 (peacock)

2 rows MC

4 rows C1 (green)

Repeat this sequence throughout.

Finishing:

Press lightly on reverse according to ball band instructions.

Join side seams and sew on 2 buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Position pockets with a cast on edge at the top and stitch in place.

Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim

Well, the bad weather's finally arrived, a great excuse to stay in the warm and knit! I finished this sweater before Christmas and have worn it several times already - I wanted something reasonably warm but not too bulky to wear indoors. I also hate crew necks - they really annoy me - so I came up with this design with a shirt-style collar. The cable trim is enough to stop the design being totally boring to knit, but it was still finished in just over a week. 

Materials: 

500g 100% acrylic DK

(I used Woolcraft New Fashion in Shade 723 Imperial – a bright purple which looks more blue in the photos!))

Pair each 3.25 mm, 3.75 mm and 4 mm needles, plus one 4.5 mm needle for casting off collar

Cable needle

Stitch holder

3 large safety pins or nappy pins

3 x 12 mm buttons

Measurements:

To fit chest/bust 40–42 in (actual measurement 44 in). Length 26 in, sleeve seam 16 in.

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 in over st st

Abbreviations:

K         knit

P         purl

st st    stocking stitch 

patt   pattern

tog     together

st(s)   stitch(es)

inc     increase

dec    decrease

RS      right side

WS     wrong side

rem    remaining 

C4B    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
C4F    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
T4B     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle.
T4F     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle.

First pattern panel:

1^st row: P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3

2^nd row: K3, P4, K4, P4, K3

3^rd row: P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1

4^th row: K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1

5^th row: P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1

6^th row: as 4^th row

7^th row: P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1

8^th row: as 2^nd row

Second pattern panel:

Work as for first pattern panel, reading C4F for C4B and vice versa throughout.

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 133 sts and work 3 inches in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 4 mm needles and work as follows:

1^st row: K26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, K45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, K to end.

2^nd row: P26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, P45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, P to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 16 inches, or desired side seam length, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (85 sts).

Continue until work measures 9.5 inches from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (25.5 in total).

Shape shoulders: Cast off 8 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 39 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Front:

Work as for back to start of armhole shaping.

Shape armholes and divide for neck: Cast off 6, K20, work 18 sts of 1^st patt panel, K19, turn. Working on these sts only, work to end of row.

**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (40 sts).

Work straight until you have completed 12 rows less than back to shoulder dec (11 rows less on other side of front). On next (RS) row, work to last 8 sts, place these 8 sts on a safety pin, turn and dec 1 st at neck edge at start of next row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows and foll alt 3 rows. Work 2 rows straight. Cast off 8 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 8 sts.

Place next 7 sts on needle onto a second safety pin. Rejoin yarn and work to end.

Next row: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row. Work rest of front as for first side from **.

Right sleeve

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 59 sts and work 3 inches in rib as for back, working 1 row less than for back.

Inc row: Rib 6, (inc in next st, rib 3) 13 times, rib 1 (72 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles. Next row: K 27, work 18 sts of 1^st patt panel, K27

Next row: P27, work 18 sts of 1^st patt panel, P27.

Continue in this manner, inc 1 st at each end of the 9^th and every foll 8^th row until there are 96 sts. Work stright until work measures 16 in or desired sleeve length.

Shape top of sleeve: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, then following alt (RS) rows until there are 40 sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of every row until there are 28 sts. Cast off 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 22 sts.

Left sleeve

Work exactly as for right sleeve, but use the second patt panel instead of the first.

Button band

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 9 sts. 1^st row: K1, (P1, K1) to end. 2^nd row: K1, (K1, P1 to last st, K1.

Repeat these 2 rows until the work measures 7.5 inches. Place sts on safety pin.

Buttonhole band

Place 7 sts at centre of front onto 3.25 mm needles with WS facing.

Next row: K2, (P1, K2in) twice, K1 (9 sts)

Next row: K1, (P1, K1) to end.

Rib 16 more rows.

1^st buttonhole row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib 3

2^nd buttonhole row: Rib 3, turn and cast on 3, turn and rib 3.

(Rib 18 rows and work 2 buttonhole rows) twice. Rib 2 rows. Do not break yarn or remove from needle.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles, rib across 9 sts on needle at top of buttonhole band, K across 8 sts from safety pin at right front neck. Pick up and knit 20 sts up shaped edge of right front neck, K across sts from holder at back neck, pick up and K 20 sts down shaped edge of left front neck, K across 8 sts on safety pin at left front, and finally rib across the 9 sts at the top of the button band (113 sts).

Work 9 rows rib using 3.25 mm needles, 10 rows using 3.75 mm needles, and 10 rows with 4 mm needles. Cast off in rib using 4.5 mm needle.

Detail of the neck and collar

Finishing

Join bands to front neck using a flat seam. Catch bottom edge of button band to inside behind buttonhole band.

Attach sleeves to body, join sleeve and side seams.

Neaten buttonholes and attach buttons.

Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions). Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

 

Raspberry Ripple - Vintage-inspired top

Vintage-styled short-sleeved top with mitred neck

I made this for one of my daughters for Christmas. She’s into the fifties look, and has recently won an award for Best Vintage-Inspired Designer in Manchester (see Kally’s blog here), but she doesn’t knit so it’s something I can make that she can’t!

I used the same stitch pattern as for the Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket, but in 4-ply and with only one contrast colour.

Materials:

Back view of top

150g 4-ply yarn in main colour (black) and 100g in contrast (raspberry) – I used some of the Bramwell 100% acrylic coned yarn left over from my machine knitting days, but any yarn that knits to the correct tension will do.

1 pair 3 mm (UK 11) needles

1 pair 3.75 mm (UK 9) needles

Tension:

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 in/10 cm over pattern.

Measurements:

To fit size 42 to 44 in bust – actual measurements bust 40 in (unstretched), length 20 in, sleeve seam 4½ in.

Abbreviations: 

K      knit

P      purl

M1    make 1 st (pick up loop between 2 sts and knit into the back of it)

st st  stocking stitch

g st   garter stitch (every row K) 

patt  pattern

tog    together

st(s)  stitch(es)

inc    increase

dec   decrease

RS     right side

WS    wrong side

MC    main colour

CC    contrast colour

in      inch(es) 

Back:

Using MC and size 3 mm needles, cast on 119 sts. Work 3½ in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.75 mm needles and join in CC – do not cut MC yarn, just carry it up the side of your work, taking care not to pull it too tightly. Work as follows:

Inc row: K2, M1, (K5, M1) 23 times, K2 (143 sts). Work 3 further rows in CC, in st st.

Pattern row (RS): Using MC, K2tog twice, (K1, M1) 4 times, K1, K2tog twice. Repeat to end of row (13 st repeat)

Work 3 rows g st.

Using CC, work pattern row again, then st st 3 rows.

Continue in this manner, working 4 rows MC in g st then 4 rows CC in st st, the first row in each colour being the pattern row, until work measures 13 in.

Decrease for armholes: Keeping continuity of patt, cast off 9 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows (115 sts).**

Dec 1 st at each end of 2^nd and each alt row (RS rows) until 91 sts remain.

Work straight until work measures 6 in from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a fourth contrast row.

Shape neck: Patt 13, turn and patt 13 more rows on these 13 sts, thus ending at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: Cast off 7 sts at start of next row. Patt 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 sts.

Place next 65 sts on stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to rem 13 sts and work 15 rows, thus ending at armhole edge. Shape shoulder as above.

Back neck: Using MC and 3.25 mm needles, with RS facing you, pick up and K 10 sts down right side of neck (right hand side on work), K across 65 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K 10 sts up other side of work (85 sts). K 1 row.

Continue to work neck as follows:

1st row:	K8,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K61,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K8.	(81 sts)
2nd and foll WS rows: K to end
3rd row:	K7,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K59,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K7.	(77 sts)
5th row:	K6,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K57,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K6.	(73 sts)
7th row:	K5,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K55,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K5.	(69 sts)
9th row:	K4,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K53,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K4.	(65 sts)
11th row:	K3,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K51,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K3.	(61 sts)
13th row:	K2,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K49,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K2.	(57 sts)
15th row:	K1,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K47,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K1.	(53 sts)
17th row:		K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K45,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,		(49 sts)
18th row: (WS) K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. Cast off remaining 47 sts fairly loosely.

Front:

Work as for back to **.

Dec 1 st at each end of 2^nd and each alt row (RS rows) until 111 sts remain, ending with a WS row.

Divide for front neck: K2 tog, patt 21, turn leaving remaining 88 sts on needle. Working on these 22 sts, continue in patt, continuing to dec 1 st at armhole edge on each RS row until 13 sts remain. Continue straight until front is same length as back to shoulder cast off, cast off as for front.

Place next 65 sts on a stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to remaining 23 sts. Patt to last 2 sts, K2 tog.

Continue in patt as for other side of front neck, reversing all shapings.

Front neck: Using MC and 3.25 mm needles, with RS facing you, pick up and K 38 sts down left side of neck (right hand side on work), K across 65 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K 38 sts up other side of work (141 sts). K 1 row.

Continue to work neck as follows:

1st row:	K36,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K61,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K36.	(137 sts)
2nd and foll WS rows: K to end
3rd row:	K35,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K59,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K35.	(133 sts)
5th row:	K34,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K57,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K34.	(129 sts)
7th row:	K33,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K55,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K33.	(125 sts)
9th row:	K32,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K53,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K32.	(121 sts)
11th row:	K31,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K51,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K31.	(117 sts)
13th row:	K30,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K49,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K30.	(113 sts)
15th row:	K29,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K47,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K29.	(109 sts)
17th row:	K28,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K45,	K2tog, S1, K1, psso,	K28.	(105 sts)
18th row: K to end.

Cast off fairly loosely, working double decreases at mitred corners in line with those already worked.

Sleeve (make 2):

Using MC and size 3 mm needles, cast on 87 sts. Work 1½ in K1, P1 rib.

Change to 3.75 mm needles and join in CC.

Inc row: K4, M1, (K5, M1) 16 times, K3 (104 sts). Work 3 further rows in CC, in st st.

Continue in patt as for back until work measures 4½ in from start.

Decrease for armholes: Keeping continuity of patt, cast off 9 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row (RS) and following alt rows until 64 sts remain.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following 4^th rows (RS) until 50 sts remain, then every alt row until 34 sts remain, ending with a RS row.

Next row: (P2 tog) 17 times. Cast off remaining 17 sts.

To make up:

Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions).

Set in sleeves, then join sleeve and side seams. Sew ends into seams. Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

Outfits for 16 inch baby doll - part 3

Well, here we are at the start of yet another new year - where does all the time go? Now that Christmas is over I can post the patterns from my knitted presents - didn't want to give too much away beforehand!
First, the rest of the doll's clothes patterns, started in November. Pattern for a vintage look sweater to follow. 

 
Dress, jacket and bonnet

Materials:

4-ply yarn in white (W) and red (R)

Pair size 3.25 mm (UK 10) needles

Pair size 3 mm (UK 11) needles

2 small buttons

Shirring elastic (to match leggings)

Pair 3.5 mm (UK 10) knitting needles

3 mm crochet hook

Tension:

7 sts to 1 inch over st st

Measurements:

To fit a 15 to 16 in baby doll: chest 11.5 in, waist 12 in, sleeve seam 3 in, head circumference 12 in.

Abbreviations: see vest pattern

Dress

With 3.25 mm needles and W, cast on 120 sts. K 3 rows.

Change to R and work 4 rows in st st, then 2 rows g st in W. Do not break off yarn, but carry up the side of the work.

Continue working 4 rows st st in R, then 2 rows g st in W, until work measures 3.5 in. Cast on 2 sts at start of next 2 rows. Continue to work in patt, working 4 sts in g st at each end of every row until work measures 5 in, ending with a R stripe.

Next row: Using W, K4, (K2 tog, K1) to last 6 sts, K2 tog, K4 (85 sts).

Work 3 more rows in g st using W, making buttonhole 3 sts from end of 3^rd row. To make buttonhole, work y fwd, K2 tog.

Change to R, break off W and work 2 rows st st.

Divide for armholes: K 21, cast off 4, K 35, cast of 4, K 21.

Next row: K 4, P 15, K2 tog, turn. Working on these 20 sts only, dec 1 st at start of next and following alt rows until 18 sts remain. Work 16 rows straight in st st, maintaining g st border and working another buttonhole on 7^th of these rows.

Cast off 6 sts at start of next 2 alt rows (shoulder edge), P 1 row, cast off rem 6 sts.

Rejoin yarn to next st on needle, P2 tog, P 31, P2 tog, turn and work on these 33 sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and alt rows until 27 sts remain. Work 7 rows straight in st st.

Divide for neck: K 12, cast off 3, K 12. Working on last 12 sts, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 alt rows (9 sts). Work 3 rows straight. Cast off 4 sts at start of next row, work 1 row, cast off rem 5 sts.

Rejoin yarn and work other side of front neck on next 12 sts to match.

Rejoin yarn to rem 21 sts and work left back to match right back above.

With W, pick up 42 sts around armhole, work 4 rows in g st and cast off. Repeat for other armhole.

Neck finishing and ties: Join shoulder seams. With 3 mm crocket hook and W, work 5 in chain, work 1 row double crochet around neck edge, then 5 in chain.

Join back seam, overlapping extensions. Neaten buttonholes and attach buttons to correspond.

Bonnet

Using 3.5 mm needles and W, cast on 70 sts. Work 3 rows g st in W, then work 34 rows in patt as for dress

Cast off. Join back seam.

With 3 mm crochet hook and W, work 6 in chain. Work 1 row double crochet around neck edge, then another 6 in chain. Darn in ends.

Leggings

The pattern for these was taken from Claire’s leggings pattern (Claire at www.babydollhandknitdesigns.co.uk - her patterns are in various sizes and suitable for premature babies too).