Showing posts with label 60s. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 60s. Show all posts

Friday, 22 November 2013

Vintage-style round striped cushions

My daughter recently moved home, and wanted cushions to go with her new 50s/60s style sofa. As usual I ended up designing my own pattern - there are images on the Internet for similar cushions, but I couldn't find a free pattern.
This is a great stashbusting project - use bright colours with black or white for a 60s look, and more subtle shades for a 50s feel. The pattern is for a cushion 18” in diameter, but you can easily adjust the size – see note at end.

Materials:

100g DK in colour 1 – used for the back and the narrow stripes separating the colour segments
40g DK in each of 2 more colours. If you want to use 3 colours, allow 30g of each. 6 colours will need about 15 g and so on. You could even make each segment a different colour, to use up all those tiny balls of yarn! I used yarn from my 100% acrylic stash, which is mainly Hayfield Bonus DK and Woolcraft New Fashion DK.
Pair UK 9/3.75 mm straight needles.
3.5 mm crochet hook.
10” or 12” zip to match back colour.
18” round cushion pad.

Measurements:

Finished diameter approximately 17” (to fit an 18” diameter cushion pad).

Tension:

22 sts and 44 rows to 4”/10 cm over garter stitch.

Abbreviations:


K knit C1 colour 1
st(s) stitch(es) C2 colour 2
g st garter stitch (every row K) C3 colour 3
dc double crochet sl st slip stitch (crochet)

Front:

Using C1, cast on 48 sts.
*Break off C1 and join in C2. K to last 3 sts, turn and K to end.
Next 2 rows: K to 3 sts less than previous rows, turn and K to end.
Repeat last 2 rows, reducing the number of sts worked each time by 3, until the rows K3, turn, K3 have been worked. Break off C2.
Join in C1 and K 2 rows across all sts.
Repeat from * using C3. Continue as picture until 18 segments in all have been worked, ending with K3, turn,K3 (ie do not knit the 2 full rows in C1).
Join in C1, K 1 row and cast off loosely (use a needle 1 or 2 sizes larger).

Back:

Make exactly as for front, using C1 throughout. You can make the back to match the front, but you will need to knit the coloured segments in reverse order to make the edges match up – this matters more when 3 or more colours are used.

Finishing:

Note: For US readers, dc (double crochet) in the UK is the same as single crochet in the US

For each piece, with right sides together, oversew seam fairly loosely. At centre, weave yarn through the row ends, draw up tightly and stitch to secure. Press seams lightly according to ball band instructions.
On the back piece, with RS facing you and starting at the seam, work 1 dc into each “knot” at the row ends, thus working 1 dc for every 2 rows of g st. Work until row of dc is about ¾” shorter than the zip you are using.
Place front and back pieces wrong sides together, lining up the seams. With RS of front facing you, work a row of dc into the front piece to correspond with the dc on the back.
Pin the two pieces wrong sides together, lining up the full rows at the end of each segment, and continue to work dc as before, working through both layers. When the round is complete, work 1 sl st into the start of the crochet round and fasten off.
Insert zip, stretching work slightly to fit. Insert cushion pad.

Variations:


The rust and grey cushion measures 24” across and required 63 sts to be cast on. To make cushions in different sizes or using other yarn thicknesses, simply multiply the radius (half the diameter) you want by the number of sts per inch, ensuring that the number you cast on can be divided by 3.







The rainbow cushion is worked slightly differently: after casting on the first colour, work 2 rows across all sts then reduce by 3 sts per 2 rows as before until 3 are left. Change colours at this point, starting the next colour by working 2 rows across all sts.

Monday, 17 June 2013

Classic 60s polo neck sweater

Steve Winwood in the original sweater
As usual I've been too busy knitting to write up my patterns - I really must make more effort! This sweater was made for a friend who's very much into the 60s Mod look, even though he's about 25 years too young to remember it! He'd asked me if I could make him a sweater like one he'd seen Steve Winwood wearing in a photo taken in about 1965, when Steve was with the Spencer Davis Group. (Who else remembers them? Come on, own up!). 
I've made a couple of minor changes - it looks as though the original was in Aran/worsted weight, which was a little heavy for Paul if he wanted to wear it on stage (he's the guitarist in a 60s tribute band, The Beat Rooms), so I used Jarol Heritage DK, which has a high wool content and is therefore more authentic than synthetic fibres. I also changed the shoulder line slightly as the dropped shoulder of the original would be uncomfortable under a jacket. Here's the pattern - it's very simple, with a cable repeat every 14 rows on both front and back.

Please note error in sleeve pattern now corrected 6 March 2014

Classic 1960s polo neck sweater


 
My version of Steve's sweater

Materials:


700g Jarol Heritage DK – I used shade 100 Cream.

Pair size UK 10/3.25 mm needles

Pair size UK 8/4 mm needles

Set of size UK 9/3.75 mm double point needles for polo collar

Cable needle

2 stitch holders or spare needles



Measurements:


To fit chest 40” to 42” (actual measurement 44”)

Length 28”

Sleeve seam 19” plus turnback cuff

Back width across shoulders (between sleeve set-in seams) 16”



Tension:


22 sts and 30 rows to 4” measured over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles.

Abbreviations:


K
knit
K2in
Inc 1 st by knitting into back and front of same st
P
purl

st st
stocking stitch
rem remaining
patt pattern RS right side
tog together WS wrong side
st(s) stitch(es) C8F slip next 4 sts onto cable needle, place at front of work, K next 4 sts, then K 4 sts from cable needle
inc increase
dec decrease
alt alternate




Back:


Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 119 sts and work 3” (22 rows) rib as follows:

1st rib row: (K1, P1) to last st, K1.

2nd rib row: K1, (K1, P1) to last 2 sts, K2.

Inc row: Rib 4, (K2in, rib 11) 9 times. K2in, rib 6 (129 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles and work 14 row cable pattern as follows:

Marker added on cable row
1st, 3rd and 5th (RS) rows: (K35, P2, K8, P2) twice, K35

2nd and alt (WS) rows: (P35, K2, P8, P2) twice, P35

7th row: (K35, P2, C8F, P2) twice, K35 – place a marker on this row (a length of contrasting yarn will be fine).

9th, 11th and 13th rows – as 1st.

Repeat these 14 rows until work measures 18” or desired length to start of armhole decreasing. Move the marker to each new cable patt row as you work it.
Armhole shaping: Keeping continuity of cable pattern, cast off 4 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, then each alt 6 (RS) rows (95 sts rem).

Work straight until work measures 9½” from start of armhole decreasing, i.e. 27½” in total.

Shoulder shaping: Cast off 9 sts at start of next 4 rows, then 10 at start of nest 2 rows. Place rem 39 sts on stitch holder for neck.


Front:


Work as for back to end of armhole shaping. Work straight until work is 18 rows shorter than the back to start of shoulder shaping, thus ending with a WS row.

Divide for neck: Work 35 sts, turn, P2 tog and work to end. Working on these 34 sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows, then on next 3 alt (RS) rows (28 sts).

Work 7 rows straight. With RS facing, cast off 9 sts at start of next and foll alt rows. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 10 sts.

Place centre 25 sts on stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to rem sts and complete other side of neck to match.



Sleeves (make 2 alike):


Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 59 sts and work 5” (40 rows) rib as for back. If you prefer to omit the turnback, work 3” (22 rows).

Inc row: Rib 5, (K2 in, rib 7) 6 times, K2 in, rib 5 (66 sts).

Change to 4 mm needles and. working in st st throughout, inc 1 st (K2 in) at each end of 7th row and each following 8th row until there are 92 sts.

Work straight until work measures 21” (or 19” if you are omitting the turnback).

Shape top: cast off 4 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next and foll alt (RS) rows until there are 40 sts left. Dec each end of every row until 28 sts are left.

Cast off 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 22 sts.
Back of sweater also has cable pattern


Polo collar:


Join shoulder seams.

Using 3.75 mm dpns or circular needle, and starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 22 sts down left front neck, K across 25 sts from centre front, pick up and K 22 sts up right front neck, and finally K across 39 sts from back neck (108 sts). Work 6½” K1, P1 rib. Cast off loosely – use a needle 1 or 2 sizes larger.




Finishing:


Press pieces according to ball band instrucions. Set in sleeves, then join side and sleeve seams. Don't forget to stitch the lower 3” of the sleeve ribbing from the other side, as the cuffs will be turned back in wear. Press seams.