Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Sweater with shirt collar and cable trim

Well, the bad weather's finally arrived, a great excuse to stay in the warm and knit! I finished this sweater before Christmas and have worn it several times already - I wanted something reasonably warm but not too bulky to wear indoors. I also hate crew necks - they really annoy me - so I came up with this design with a shirt-style collar. The cable trim is enough to stop the design being totally boring to knit, but it was still finished in just over a week. 



Materials: 

500g 100% acrylic DK
(I used Woolcraft New Fashion in Shade 723 Imperial – a bright purple which looks more blue in the photos!))
Pair each 3.25 mm, 3.75 mm and 4 mm needles, plus one 4.5 mm needle for casting off collar
Cable needle
Stitch holder
3 large safety pins or nappy pins
3 x 12 mm buttons

Measurements:

To fit chest/bust 40–42 in (actual measurement 44 in). Length 26 in, sleeve seam 16 in.

Tension:

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 in over st st

Abbreviations:

K         knit
P         purl
st st    stocking stitch 
patt   pattern
tog     together
st(s)   stitch(es)
inc     increase
dec    decrease
RS      right side
WS     wrong side
rem    remaining 
C4B    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
C4F    Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle.
T4B     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P2 from cable needle.
T4F     Slip next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K2 from cable needle.

First pattern panel:

1st row: P3, C4B, P4, C4B, P3
2nd row: K3, P4, K4, P4, K3
3rd row: P1, (T4B, T4F) twice, P1
4th row: K1, P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, K1
5th row: P1, K2, P4, C4F, P4, K2, P1
6th row: as 4th row
7th row: P1, (T4F, T4B) twice, P1
8th row: as 2nd row

Second pattern panel:

Work as for first pattern panel, reading C4F for C4B and vice versa throughout.

Back:

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 133 sts and work 3 inches in K1, P1 rib.
Change to 4 mm needles and work as follows:
1st row: K26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, K45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, K to end.
2nd row: P26, work 18 sts of first pattern panel, P45, work 18 sts of second pattern panel, P to end.
Repeat these two rows until work measures 16 inches, or desired side seam length, ending with a WS row.
Shape armholes: Dec 6 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of the next 7 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 10 RS rows (85 sts).
Continue until work measures 9.5 inches from start of armhole decreasing, ending with a WS row (25.5 in total).
Shape shoulders: Cast off 8 sts at start of next 6 rows. Place rem 39 sts on stitch holder for collar.

Front:

Work as for back to start of armhole shaping.
Shape armholes and divide for neck: Cast off 6, K20, work 18 sts of 1st patt panel, K19, turn. Working on these sts only, work to end of row.
**Dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 7 rows, then foll 10 RS rows (40 sts).
Work straight until you have completed 12 rows less than back to shoulder dec (11 rows less on other side of front). On next (RS) row, work to last 8 sts, place these 8 sts on a safety pin, turn and dec 1 st at neck edge at start of next row.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows and foll alt 3 rows. Work 2 rows straight. Cast off 8 sts at start of next and foll alt row, work 1 row. Cast off rem 8 sts.
Place next 7 sts on needle onto a second safety pin. Rejoin yarn and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 6 sts at start of next row. Work rest of front as for first side from **.

Right sleeve

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 59 sts and work 3 inches in rib as for back, working 1 row less than for back.
Inc row: Rib 6, (inc in next st, rib 3) 13 times, rib 1 (72 sts).
Change to 4 mm needles. Next row: K 27, work 18 sts of 1st patt panel, K27
Next row: P27, work 18 sts of 1st patt panel, P27.
Continue in this manner, inc 1 st at each end of the 9th and every foll 8th row until there are 96 sts. Work stright until work measures 16 in or desired sleeve length.
Shape top of sleeve: Cast off 6 sts at start of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, then following alt (RS) rows until there are 40 sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of every row until there are 28 sts. Cast off 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 22 sts.

Left sleeve

Work exactly as for right sleeve, but use the second patt panel instead of the first.

Button band

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 9 sts. 1st row: K1, (P1, K1) to end. 2nd row: K1, (K1, P1 to last st, K1.
Repeat these 2 rows until the work measures 7.5 inches. Place sts on safety pin.

Buttonhole band

Place 7 sts at centre of front onto 3.25 mm needles with WS facing.
Next row: K2, (P1, K2in) twice, K1 (9 sts)
Next row: K1, (P1, K1) to end.
Rib 16 more rows.
1st buttonhole row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib 3
2nd buttonhole row: Rib 3, turn and cast on 3, turn and rib 3.
(Rib 18 rows and work 2 buttonhole rows) twice. Rib 2 rows. Do not break yarn or remove from needle.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.
With RS facing, using 3.25 mm needles, rib across 9 sts on needle at top of buttonhole band, K across 8 sts from safety pin at right front neck. Pick up and knit 20 sts up shaped edge of right front neck, K across sts from holder at back neck, pick up and K 20 sts down shaped edge of left front neck, K across 8 sts on safety pin at left front, and finally rib across the 9 sts at the top of the button band (113 sts).
Work 9 rows rib using 3.25 mm needles, 10 rows using 3.75 mm needles, and 10 rows with 4 mm needles. Cast off in rib using 4.5 mm needle.
Detail of the neck and collar

Finishing

Join bands to front neck using a flat seam. Catch bottom edge of button band to inside behind buttonhole band.
Attach sleeves to body, join sleeve and side seams.
Neaten buttonholes and attach buttons.
Do not press (if you have used different yarn, press according to ball band instructions). Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.
 

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