Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket

I've finally managed to design and knit something for myself - I haven't seen this stitch pattern anywhere else so I guess I must have invented it! I wanted a comfy hooded jacket for winter days at my husband's freezing cold shop, and used twelve colours plus black to make it. You could try using a single contrast colour, or two, three or four - it's a great way of using up odd balls of yarn from your stash. You might want to use more subtle contrast colours, especially if you make it for a man, but I love bright colours so I'm going to wear them all!

Rainbow Ripple Hooded Jacket - front (see below for back view)

Instructions

Materials:

Woolcraft New Fashion or Hayfield Budget DK (100% acrylic):

4 x 100g balls black (MC)

30g of each of 12 contrast colours

Note: If you choose to use only one contrast colour, you will need 4 x 100g balls; 6 contrast colours will require 60g of each and so on.

26 in open ended zip to match MC.

Pair 4 mm long knitting needles (at least 14 in/35 cm)

Pair 3.5 mm long knitting needles

Tension:

23 sts and 32 rows to 10 cm/4 in over pattern

Size:

To fit 40-42 in bust/chest – actual measurement 45 in

Length 27.5 in

Sleeve seam 17 in

Abbreviations:

K      knit

P      purl

M1    make 1 st by picking up loop between 2 sts and knitting into the back of it

st st        stocking stitch

g st        garter stitch (every row K)

patt        pattern

tog        together

st(s)        stitch(es)

inc        increase

dec        decrease

RS     right side

WS        wrong side

MC    main colour

in        inch(es)

Back:

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 130 sts and knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and join in first contrast – do not cut MC yarn, just carry it up the side of your work, taking care not to pull it too tightly. Work as follows:

Pattern row (RS): K2tog twice, (K1, M1) 4 times, K1, K2tog twice. Repeat to end of row (13 st repeat)

Work 3 rows st st, starting with a purl row.

Using MC, work pattern row again, then knit 3 rows.

Continue in this manner, working 4 rows contrast in st st, then 4 rows MC in g st, the first row in each colour being the pattern row, until work measures 17 in.

Decrease for raglan:

Note: take care to keep continuity of pattern: use markers to indicate end of pattern repeat as needed)

Cast off 1 st at start of next 2 rows, work 2 rows straight.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alternate (RS) rows until 40 sts remain. Cast off.

Pocket linings: (make 2)

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 27 sts and work in st st for 5½ in. Leave sts on a spare needle.

Left front:

Using MC and 3.5 mm needles, cast on 65 sts. Knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back until work measures 7 in, ending with 4^th pattern (contrast) row.

Insert pocket lining and form pocket opening:

Next row (RS): With MC, pattern 19 sts, place next 27 sts on a stitch holder, patt 27 sts from spare needle, patt remaining 19 sts (65 sts).

Continue in patt until front measures same as back to start of raglan decrease.

Decrease for raglan: (see note above)

Cast off 1 st at start of next row, work 3 rows straight.

Dec 1 st at start of next and alt (RS) rows until 29 sts remain, ending with a RS row.

Shape neck: Cast off 5 sts at start of next row. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 rows, at the same time continuing to dec on alt RS rows at armhole edge, until 4 sts remain.

Next row: K2 tog twice

Next row: p2

Next row: K2tog and fasten off.

Right front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.

Pocket tops: (2 alike)

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, place 27 sts from stitch holder on needle with RS facing and k 4 rows. Cast off.

Sleeve: (make 2)

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, cast on 65 sts and knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back, increasing 1 st at each end of next (RS) row and every following 8^th row until there are 91 sts. Take care to incorporate new stitches into pattern (see note above).

Work straight until work measures the same as the back to armhole shaping.

Note: if you need to adjust the length of the sleeves or the body, you must ensure that the pattern still matches up when you come to work the raglan shaping. For example, if you reduce the sleeve length by one pattern, start the sleeve pattern with the second contrast.

Decrease for raglan:  

Cast off 1 st at start of next 2 rows.

Work 2 rows straight, then dec 1 st at each end of the next row. Work 1 row straight.

Repeat last 4 rows twice more (83 sts).

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alternate (RS) rows until 7 sts remain. Cast off.

Hood:

Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, cast on 169 sts. Knit 5 rows.

Change to 4 mm needles and pattern as for back until work measures 2½ in, ending with WS row.

Dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt rows until there are 143 sts.

Work straight until work measures 10½ in. Cast off.

Front borders:

For each side, using 3.5 mm needles and MC, pick up and knit 156 sts evenly along front edge. Knit 2 rows. Cast off loosely (use a size larger needle if necessary).

Making up:

Press pieces according to instructions on ball band (do not press 100% acrylic yarn).

Sew edges of pocket tops to front, and edges of pocket linings to inside of fronts.

Join raglan seams, matching coloured stripes carefully. Join side and sleeve seams. Insert zip. Attach hood to neck, easing in any fullness.

Press seams lightly under a dry cloth.

Back of jacket